Planet Minis

nautha · 06-05-2009, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBparts

Blackwoodz,

One, we go to all the 2up and local races in the area. Last year, 2008, I personally saw 2008 models with the chinese clutches go bad. You can speak to two local dealers John McBride (McBride Sports) or Mike McAllister (Dead Mike's Pitbikes) as they are the two guys who spent tons of time fixing them. I also spoke to the Ohio guys at the 2up Nationals who were having similar problems. It was not limited to pre 2008 engines. For the 2009 models, the series is just underway here and will see how it goes at the track.

Regarding the "bling" factor. As Siktendencies pointed out, it cost virtually nothing to anodize parts and we do that simply for the product photo so it looks different from a stock cast clutch. Once on the bike, nobody sees it nor knows you have it. Look through our online catalog, we are hardly a company that focuses on bling. We don't make dress up kits, graphics, etc. The closest "bling" thing we make is covers for the manual clutches.

Then you mention the clutch kit is made in China which its not so not sure how you came up with that. Its made in Taiwan when you can get actual billet aluminum and different grades and know you will get the actual type paid for. The only two parts in the kit not made in Taiwan are two washers which are stock Jailing parts. But if you think you can make a similar product and sell to your dealers and retail at $100, you should do it.

In your last post, you mention there is alternative, but if there are no problems with stock setup as you said earlier, why mention an alternative now? Regarding our baskets breaking, please post some pics and who was it? I have not heard of one breaking from any customer with the first batch already sold out. The only one I know who had a problem was Matt from NCC/Pitster who said the something about his washers on the backside of the gear hitting the small gear. I was going to discuss with him at the last 2up race but it was running late and started to pour - had to go.
Believe it or not....

beside the fact that i think that you guys make very good products, do you have in plain to come out with a TB Billet clutch kit for the Daytonas engines?
Thanks

c.rose #4 · 06-05-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautha

beside the fact that i think that you guys make very good products, do you have in plain to come out with a TB Billet clutch kit for the Daytonas engines?
Thanks

ive had the same problem my motors just gone bang, connecting rod snapped, you can run the tb billet 6 plate in the daytona i was

Blackwoodz · 06-05-2009, 10:46 AM

Mike I apologize for you thinking I was bashing your clutch..That was not my intention. I am sure it is a good setup but I just do not think it is needed for the average guy riding bikes in his backyard. You have really good prices on some good products...and I do run your V2 which I really like alot....Thanks for all you have done for the budget racers and backyard bashers in the sport of minis.

nautha · 06-05-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c.rose #4

ive had the same problem my motors just gone bang, connecting rod snapped, you can run the tb billet 6 plate in the daytona i was

How is it possible to use the TB billet clutch on a Daytona if the TB basket has a spline center and the original daytona has a smooth cylindrical inner basket section???

nautha · 06-05-2009, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by themountain

..how does the chaytona basket connect with the shaft without splines....???

on daytonas, the spline section that connect to the clutch arm is not in the clutch basket but is in the pressure plate that carries all the fiber and metal plates and the clutch springs (the one just behind the 4-bolt lifter plate), anyway, i dont know if the measure of the two splined sections (on TB billet and stock daytonas) is the same and you can switch it...
only TB can answer to this question..(please

)..

sipke · 06-05-2009, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautha

on daytonas, the spline section that connect to the clutch arm is not in the clutch basket but is in the first plate that carries all the fiber and metal plates and the clutch springs (the one just behind the 4-bolt lifter plate), anyway, i dont know if the measure of the two splined sections (on TB billet and stock daytonas) is the same and you can switch it...
only TB can answer to this question..(please

)..

maybe you can use the bush that's inside an OEM-basket. Should be plenty around with all those broken baskets...

micro75 · 06-07-2009, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by themountain

as much as I like the Zonger...don^t be a guinee pig...get the lifan150..cheap as chips and reliable !!

Plus 1 I would not be the FREE test force

micro75 · 06-07-2009, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackwoodz

The TB billet basket is just about bling...nothing else..just get better fibers and springs

The reason most of the clutches fail is the rubbers get destroyed and leave no dampening the TB clutch addresses these problems and TB has parts for the clutches

Long Crapper · 06-08-2009, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by micro75

The reason most of the clutches fail is the rubbers get destroyed and leave no dampening the TB clutch addresses these problems and TB has parts for the clutches

Do they fail when people only ride around on the street and yards or is their failing do to hard racing with people jamming gears and abusing their clutches?

c.rose #4 · 06-08-2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautha

on daytonas, the spline section that connect to the clutch arm is not in the clutch basket but is in the pressure plate that carries all the fiber and metal plates and the clutch springs (the one just behind the 4-bolt lifter plate), anyway, i dont know if the measure of the two splined sections (on TB billet and stock daytonas) is the same and you can switch it...
only TB can answer to this question..(please

)..

sorry guys to confuse you i just uprated my plates and springs to the 6 plates from tb and there hd springs, id love to know if TB have a billet basket or have the solution to this prob daytona are having because id be seriously interested in one!

craig

Pimpindahoes · 06-08-2009, 07:49 PM

shiit.......im out of popcorn and beer.

heading to the store....don't continue without me.....

Kurlon · 06-08-2009, 08:06 PM

I'll just toss one lil factoid out there... Anodized aluminum has a harder surface than raw cast or machine aluminum. On a clutch, that means the slots where the tabs ride last longer.

50-50 · 06-09-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackwoodz

Well maybe the earlier versions but the 08 versions did not have the disintegrating rubbers......$200 is crazy for that setup and if you look at the rubbers in them it is not even designed correctly. And if they wanted to make it just a performance parts they would not made it out of anodized red aluminum......thats bling and made to try and justify selling a $100 parts for $200.
believe what you want

Are you an engineer? If so I will never buy products from the company you work for because you're an idiot.

Anodizing isn't just for looks. And if TB's basket is so "wrong" why don't you design and sell your own for half the cost?

kenny · 10-20-2009, 08:49 PM

hey mike
it was me that had the problem with the barsket hiting the idler gear, it was my fault i didnt install the shim behind the barsket , as it wasnt supplied in the kits when i got them,
ur product is awsome dude there is always a sook out there
cheers

firepower354 · 10-20-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurlon

I'll just toss one lil factoid out there... Anodized aluminum has a harder surface than raw cast or machine aluminum. On a clutch, that means the slots where the tabs ride last longer.

.0005" thick coating isn't really going to do much for the shock loads the basket takes. "Hard" anodizing is only dark green or black, and expensive, .002 thick.

Hopefully, someone comes up with a better system, like Daytona and Xtreme, where there's no sloppy, overloaded aluminum spline setup. Or maybe a tighter, finer spline, at the least?

The Chinese basket rubber seems to be fine, now. The spline wobble is what's allowing deflection and tooth loss. I feel...

TB basket rubbers don't allow much cushioning.

dontbejay · 10-21-2009, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pitsterpro x2 2008

Hi all,

I'm looking for a new engine for my pitsterpro x2 with 140 gpx

So I was looking around and I found the new lifan 150cc and the daytona 150cc

Which one is better and why, one thing that really matters for me is the clutch and gearbox.

Thanks

iam buying a daytona 150cc motor it puts out 19whp and iam going to buy extra clutches to? think about 19whp thats auction

06-05-2009, 10:46 AM	#43 (permalink)
Blackwoodz 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: SC Michigan Posts: 3,626	Re: Lifan 150cc (daytona look) or daytona 150cc Mike I apologize for you thinking I was bashing your clutch..That was not my intention. I am sure it is a good setup but I just do not think it is needed for the average guy riding bikes in his backyard. You have really good prices on some good products...and I do run your V2 which I really like alot....Thanks for all you have done for the budget racers and backyard bashers in the sport of minis.

06-08-2009, 07:49 PM	#51 (permalink)
Pimpindahoes 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Ontario, California Posts: 8,160 My Mood:	Re: Lifan 150cc (daytona look) or daytona 150cc shiit.......im out of popcorn and beer. heading to the store....don't continue without me.....

06-08-2009, 08:06 PM	#52 (permalink)
Kurlon Super Moderator Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Windham, ME Posts: 8,301	Re: Lifan 150cc (daytona look) or daytona 150cc I'll just toss one lil factoid out there... Anodized aluminum has a harder surface than raw cast or machine aluminum. On a clutch, that means the slots where the tabs ride last longer.

10-20-2009, 08:49 PM	#54 (permalink)
kenny PM Newbie Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 69	Re: Lifan 150cc (daytona look) or daytona 150cc hey mike it was me that had the problem with the barsket hiting the idler gear, it was my fault i didnt install the shim behind the barsket , as it wasnt supplied in the kits when i got them, ur product is awsome dude there is always a sook out there cheers

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)