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| | #41 (permalink) |
| Got Un-disappeared Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,329
My Mood: |
I think he ment he was going to take the ring off except where the pickup is. You couldn't do that in a lathe though. You'd have to have a rotary table and mill or something similar. If you do go that rought I want to point out that you need to leave at least a half inch of material on each side of the pickup because it is just raised material. It's not thicker right there. I don't think that makes any sense but I'll try to post a pick of what I mean tomorrow.
__________________ The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others. Goodness speaks in a whisper, evil shouts. -Tibetan Proverb |
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| | #42 (permalink) | |
| 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 2,125
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| | #43 (permalink) | |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Michigan, Detroit
Posts: 300
| Quote:
I've exploded aluminum clutch assemblies on the other side that blew large holes in the cover, I could imagine if that steel flywheel let go at WOT...that little ignition cover and your leg/ass wouldn't stand a chance. Guess I'm just a puss huh? | |
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| | #44 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Washington , Michigan
Posts: 528
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Well so far having removed what looks like more material then the picture shown has only netted 7.8 oz's. I am going to shave a little more off. Going to shoot for 9 oz's. And yes cyclerider you are correct about what I meant with the little hub on the outside of the flywheel. I machined alittle more off that both ways. I am thinking that the only way to really get more weight off , is going to the live tool lathe and milling out the center hub area or drill holes. I might throw it on a super saver and do it on the manual mill. Depends on which is available. Pictures this weekend of what I have so far. |
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| | #45 (permalink) |
| 1st Gear Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Zelienople, PA
Posts: 119
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I ran flywheels from McVay's on my 124 superhead for a good while, and have it on my 119 DOHC but have not ran it, and his son races the TRX90's and they all still have them on. He actually does the flywheels in three steps. He first tig welds the backside for strength, then he turns it down on a fixture just like being on the crank, then he mills the holes on a milling machine. The holes are 3/4" diameter and there are six all together. He said the holes alone only takes off 1oz. He also gives you a 5 degree advance key for the flywheel too. I'm no machinist, but I can say that Charlie is a very very smart machinist/ engine builder. He's constantly testing and fabing. I'm just trying to pass the info along, and I can say there has been zero problems with them and they are really 14oz. lighter, I can at least read a digital scale lol.
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| | #46 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 792
My Mood: |
Wow, does he have a website or somefin? I am interested in that.
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| | #48 (permalink) |
| 1st Gear Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Zelienople, PA
Posts: 119
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it's www.mcvayracing.com, but theres nothing on their yet. He spends pretty much everyone second awake in his shop working on stuff. His place is only a few minutes up the road from our place. Give Charlie a call @ 724-622-3514. If he doesn't pick up leave a message and he'll get back to you. Most of the time theres machines running so you can't hear anything.
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| | #49 (permalink) | |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mayfield, Ky
Posts: 310
| Quote:
So weigh it and tell us what it weighs. | |
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| | #50 (permalink) |
| 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mercer, PA
Posts: 164
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Well guys I have to agree with IMXracer. I have a klx 110 and charlie did all my engine work this year on it and LIGHTENED my flywheel 17oz and let me tell you it has mad hours on it and not a bit of problems with it at all. You guys can say what you want to but untill you are standing there with him reading the scale don't say that there is no way he can take that much weight off. I ran the whole pitbike nationals series with his engine and finished 2nd behind willy browning. I will say if it was'nt for Mcvay racing (charlie) I would'nt have had the outstanding season that I had. If any of you are around the western PA area go to tvLand this weds and I'll show you just how well his engines run. You all think you can send your flywheels out to someone else and have this done and shipped back with a degree key for less than 100$ GOOD LUCK. I am also leadin the points at tvland and runnin 2nd at the quaker steak & lube supermoto. I would not worry about the reliability of the flywheel with takin that much weight off. You will not get better service anywhere else in the country like Mcvay racing will give you. Just give him a try!!!
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| | #51 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Washington , Michigan
Posts: 528
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Sorry I need to correct my oz's meant to type 6.8 not 7.8. I am thinking of drilling holes as mentioned above. I dont see any problem with doing that. I do believe that the Mcvay flywheel looks nice and should be very functional ( obviously as stated above ). For $100 doing the holes and getting the weight why down there is a good deal, for $40-50 getting 7-8 oz's with just lathe work, I think is average. I was thinking $20 orignally , but would only think that ,if you where shooting to lose 5-6 oz's tops. And that may be a little short on profit money. I am curious to ask how much it did effect the inertia of the motor when coasting and on the throttle. My main idea was to lower the weight for one motor that would be strictly drag raced where I dont need to move a heavy object ( ie the bike ) through turns or down shifts. In our last heavy drag car, the aluminum flywheel would spin the motor like crazy compared to the heavy steel. But let off the throttle and and it was like turning off a light switch , that fast of a change. I ran a demo flywheel on my mastercam to see about machining one out of 6061, right now I have machine time to do just the top and sides , no inner work yet, at about 1 hour and 14 mins. I think I can cut that down tremendously as I was making changes like crazy. With back side machining probably add another 20-30 mins. Do you guys think there would be a market for aluminum flywheels ?? ( with a metal insert obviously for pickup ) |
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| | #52 (permalink) | |
| 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 1,941
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the shaved flywheel is for that "in between" area of riders that don't want a full on wide open motor. i prefer a little flywheel weight myself on MOST bikes.. after i broke my hip at the buds creek nationals in Oct 91, i switched to hare scrambles and enduro racing for the next 3 years adn came to love having that tractor like pull from teh inertia of the heavier flywheel | |
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| | #53 (permalink) |
| 1st Gear Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NJ
Posts: 231
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Any one know how much Mark(ahp) takes off the flywheel?
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| | #54 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 792
My Mood: |
He told me 6 oz. I want a screaming 88 so I might just go inner rotor
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| | #55 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mayfield, Ky
Posts: 310
| stock flywheel minus 11.8 oz.
Here you go boys, i had a trashed flywheel laying around so I cut it until it couldn't be cut any more. I cut this really quick just to prove a point. At 11.8 oz off the flywheel was so thin it flew apart on the mill.
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| | #56 (permalink) |
| 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mercer, PA
Posts: 164
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Well sure looks like that did'nt work out for yea. Maybe the cuttin it really quick is what did it. That's not somethin you can do really quick, that kinda work takes time. Is that a 50 or a 110 flywheel?
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| | #57 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mayfield, Ky
Posts: 310
| 50 flywheel
No, It came apart because the metal around the outside was less than .010 thick, it is about as firm as a coke can.
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| | #58 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Washington , Michigan
Posts: 528
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I laughed as I was curious as to how thin I could go. I left .75 mm on mine. But as I just posted in the off topic, I just lost my job. So I ll have to finish the flywheel at home on my lathe and right now thats not a huge concern as figuring out if I am going back into business for myself or looking for another job. As well I might be trading some parts off for another bike too. Not sure whats going on. But safe to say right now, that 6-7 oz's is about all your going to get off a flywheel by turning it down and having it be safe. Drilling and slotting the face was my next step, and I think thats the only place else where you can safely remove material without compromising strength. |
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| | #59 (permalink) |
| PM Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New Brighton,Pa.
Posts: 4
| Lightened Flywheels McVay Racing
Hi everyone at Planet Minis forum ! Charlie McVay here from McVay Racing ! This is my 1st post and just wanted to say what a great forum with a wealth of information that everyone can learn from. My son races quads in the nationals so I've only been quad forums and very little at that since it's addicting and take's up so much of my work time. I build race motors for the trx90's which is the same case as the xr50's and xr70's.I also do the 50's ,70's and klx110's. I'm not on here to dispute or prove anything, as we all know action speeks louder than words. I appreciate IMX Racer and Barney_968 giving me a plug about my flywheels. I took some pictures of 2 flywheels,stock and lightened.These are weighted with a digital fish which might not be as accurate as a postal scale but it's all I have so I thought I would try to post them if I can get it to work. The lightened flywheel is the one I ran the last 2 years in the nationals along with several local races on my sons trx90 race quad. Again I'm not on here to offend anyone, I just wanted to pass this information on to anyone who might have questions or need any help. Thanks, Charlie McVay |
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