Planet Minis

NCNSR · 05-31-2009, 01:48 PM

I have a Hooper/Lifan clone with a 110cc Semi-Auto with a TB 24mm carb Uni filter and R&L Racing exhaust no matter what jet i use i get popping on deceleration.I had a 20mm on it the plug was black and still the popping and running crappy when hot?

NCNSR · 05-31-2009, 04:50 PM

Popped in a #95 main and played with the screw better but no i have a slight off throttle hesitation and if i let the screw out it gets better but the popping comes back ?

tcr0148 · 05-31-2009, 05:15 PM

could be an exhaust leak......

T Bolt USA · 05-31-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcr0148

could be an exhaust leak......

good call

dirtbkr188 · 05-31-2009, 05:57 PM

Try another 1/4 turn or two IN on the air screw. If you get to within 3/4 turn from fully seated with the air screw, you need to go up a size with the pilot jet.
As tcr0148 said, could be an exhaust leak, or an air leak around the manifold area, as well. With the engine running, spray some contact cleaner on the manifold/head area, and also the manifold/carb area. Any change (higher or lower) in RPMs, and then a return to the idle speed is usually an indication of an air leak.

NCNSR · 05-31-2009, 06:14 PM

ok first thanks ,I loosened the exhaust and removed the gasket looked ok saw no soot around the flange put it all back and tightened took it for a ride and played with the air screw (Also changed from a NGK C6HSA plug to a NGK CR7HIX) seems to be alot better still very faint popping barely (after a prolonged full throttle run) the bog is minor.I have one of those 12 position spacers and i cant get at the screws unless i remove the manifold it is the only thing i havent tightend but will get some spray and check it out.By the way is the plug i went to appropriate?

dirtbkr188 · 05-31-2009, 06:21 PM

Most guys opt for the CR7HSA plug...

NCNSR · 05-31-2009, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Most guys opt for the CR7HSA plug...

Why the iridium$$ makes no difference?

dirtbkr188 · 05-31-2009, 06:27 PM

Never heard anyone make mention of using the iridium plug, honestly.

NCNSR · 05-31-2009, 06:46 PM

The lower the # the hotter the plug correct?

dirtbkr188 · 05-31-2009, 07:43 PM

Yes, that is correct. Here is a little background on plug heat ranges, from the NGK website...

NGK Spark Plugs Heat Rating
The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.

Some basic structural factors affecting the heat range of a spark plug are:Surface area and/or length of the insulator nose
Thermal conductivity of the insulator, center electrode, etc Structure of the center electrode such as a copper core, etc.

Relative position of the insulator tip to the end of the shell (projection)

The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.

05-31-2009, 01:48 PM	#1 (permalink)
NCNSR Mod formerly known as Culdesac Join Date: May 2008 Location: Garden City, N.Y. Posts: 945 My Mood:	110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm I have a Hooper/Lifan clone with a 110cc Semi-Auto with a TB 24mm carb Uni filter and R&L Racing exhaust no matter what jet i use i get popping on deceleration.I had a 20mm on it the plug was black and still the popping and running crappy when hot?

05-31-2009, 04:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
NCNSR Mod formerly known as Culdesac Join Date: May 2008 Location: Garden City, N.Y. Posts: 945 My Mood:	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm Popped in a #95 main and played with the screw better but no i have a slight off throttle hesitation and if i let the screw out it gets better but the popping comes back ?

05-31-2009, 05:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
tcr0148 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Houston, tx lafayette, la every other wknd Posts: 243	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm could be an exhaust leak......

05-31-2009, 05:57 PM	#5 (permalink)
dirtbkr188 3rd Gear Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,972	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm Try another 1/4 turn or two IN on the air screw. If you get to within 3/4 turn from fully seated with the air screw, you need to go up a size with the pilot jet. As tcr0148 said, could be an exhaust leak, or an air leak around the manifold area, as well. With the engine running, spray some contact cleaner on the manifold/head area, and also the manifold/carb area. Any change (higher or lower) in RPMs, and then a return to the idle speed is usually an indication of an air leak.

05-31-2009, 06:14 PM	#6 (permalink)
NCNSR Mod formerly known as Culdesac Join Date: May 2008 Location: Garden City, N.Y. Posts: 945 My Mood:	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm ok first thanks ,I loosened the exhaust and removed the gasket looked ok saw no soot around the flange put it all back and tightened took it for a ride and played with the air screw (Also changed from a NGK C6HSA plug to a NGK CR7HIX) seems to be alot better still very faint popping barely (after a prolonged full throttle run) the bog is minor.I have one of those 12 position spacers and i cant get at the screws unless i remove the manifold it is the only thing i havent tightend but will get some spray and check it out.By the way is the plug i went to appropriate?

05-31-2009, 06:21 PM	#7 (permalink)
dirtbkr188 3rd Gear Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,972	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm Most guys opt for the CR7HSA plug...

05-31-2009, 06:27 PM	#9 (permalink)
dirtbkr188 3rd Gear Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,972	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm Never heard anyone make mention of using the iridium plug, honestly.

05-31-2009, 06:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
NCNSR Mod formerly known as Culdesac Join Date: May 2008 Location: Garden City, N.Y. Posts: 945 My Mood:	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm The lower the # the hotter the plug correct?

05-31-2009, 07:43 PM	#11 (permalink)
dirtbkr188 3rd Gear Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,972	Re: 110cc Lifan w/TB 24mm Yes, that is correct. Here is a little background on plug heat ranges, from the NGK website... NGK Spark Plugs Heat Rating The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type. Some basic structural factors affecting the heat range of a spark plug are:Surface area and/or length of the insulator nose Thermal conductivity of the insulator, center electrode, etc Structure of the center electrode such as a copper core, etc. Relative position of the insulator tip to the end of the shell (projection) The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.

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