Planet Minis

muxster

Anyone have A Lifan 150cc and 12V Lighting Coil + 12v Battery? No charging

Is anyone else here running a 12v Lifan 150cc motor with a 12v battery? If so, does it charge successfully?

I wired my 12v stator according to Monkeytom and it lights the 12v headlight. I also bought a Lifan stock 12v wired stator and I guess I will have to try it.

Z mentioned wrapping the coil in alternating motion. This maybe keeping the stator from putting out enough power to charge the battery.

Any input is appreciated.

Muxster

nielspbr

Lights ok, and charges succesfully.
Do you have a rectifier in your electrical system?

gstegman

That worked the best for me. I had a thread on my ZB where it was not charging. FastMC posted up telling me how to check AC out of the stator.

muxster

My dad is electrical engineer and he measured the AC yesterday. He believes it's running half phase because I told him to reverse the wrappings when he wired it. That was info I got from here. I am going to install the 12v lighting stator that I bought from TDR which is Lifan Stock Stator. It's the smaller one that is correct for the Lifan 150cc. Thanks for the input.

Last thing: I am using 12v Rectifier. One of the 4 posts in the rectifier are not used. Is this correct?

Z

Don't toss me under the bus here. You have to alternate windings or it won't work correctly.

Your regulator will take the AC current from the stator assembly and turn this into DC the battery needs to charge.

If your battery isn't charging, either the stator or voltage regulator is wired incorrectly or you have something wired incorrectly in the wire harness.

When you turn your key on, the only components that should be getting juice are the following if you have it wired as Honda intended:

Neutral lamp if you have one
Hit the brakes and your rear brake lamp should work
Turn signals should flash if you have them (or at least light up without flashing if your battery is weak)
Horn should work

Your cluster and headlamp should not be getting juice unless the bike is running.

Pull out your tester and start testing.

big pete

On all my bikes, all four posts are used (2 are from the stator).

Z

On all 5 of my bikes, all 4 posts are used as well.

Yellow, White, Green and Red

If you look at the side with the connectors you plug in, the 4 connections are as follows with the tang on the top:

Y R
G W

12V CT wiring diagram:
http://www.planetminis.com/f28/1988-...ram-36841.html

Granted, yours will be different since you are using a different harness, but the principles are the same.

fatcaaat

ON the rectifier most have 4 prongs and some have 3. I use the 4 prong version only. On a Normal China outer rotor you have a yellow and white inputs and ground and red DC out.

If you are using the Lifan Mini Outer Rotor you use three but you decide how you want to wire it...battery or no battery.

If you run battery, take the yellow from the the stator, run it into where the WHITE lead is supposed to go in the rectifier and then red out to battery. Then wire your whole system from the battery.

If you run no battery, run the yellow from the stator to the yellow -in line- with the rectifer and that same yellow is now your DC power line.

The normal outer rotors are designed to work as Dan says...one line charges the battery (white line) and the yellow runs the lights.

My yellow CT70 is wired as Honda Intended it. My green CT is running a ricky stator and only has one yellow output so I am running it with a battery as I wrote above.

My new 1991 CT70 will be running the Lifan 150 mini outer rotor and I plan on wiring it the exact same way as my green CT70...yellow to rectifier to battery and then run everything from battery. And of course I am running the power switch from the battery through the keyed ignition. On a CT70 stock ignition, you have 6 lead wires which allow for a cool combination of running options. Run no lights, run lights, and off.

If you run the china knockoff ignition switch with 4 you basically get off and power/spark on. Then you need to run a headlight perch that has an off switch (which is what I do)

Z

Just don't run the headlamp through the battery or your charging system won't keep up and you'll drain the battery on longer rides.

The headlamp should only have power with the bike running.

You can run the headlamp through the battery and it will work if you so choose, and it depends on the stator you run.

Personal preference.

fatcaaat

Yeah...but you can't do this if you only have one stator lead coming out. That is the big disadvantage of the Lifan Mini outer rotor and the ricky stator...they only have one line coming out. So then you have to choose...charge the battery or run the lights from it.

The Lifan 150 Outer rotor is only designed for 55W so you need to run a 35W max front lamp and a 5W draw LED on the rear (which is just actually brighter...I run them). Now you have 15W to spare which you get the right turn signal bulbs. A little extra draw when you hit the brake is fine.

On the Ricky Stator I supposedly get 90W so I have a 55W headlamp, 5W Led tailight and do not run turnsignals. So wiring it to the battery and then to the lights does not drain my battery at all. I also have a 35W AUX halogen bulb for riding in pitch black farm roads.

Z

Very valid point. With a high-output stator, you have more options. If you wired the headlamp through the battery with a Honda stator, your battery would be dead pretty quick, especially with some of the smaller batteries we run.

The OEM Honda Monkey battery is one of the biggest pieces of poo known to man. I replace these with the $15 SLA batteries available online with close to the same dimensions. The 12V CT/ZB batteries aren't that great either.

Back on topic for the Mux.

fatcaaat

I have a cheapie battery on my yellow CT wired like Honda wanted me to wire it. I have a $55 gel battery on my Green CT because I think running extra power to it could fry a regular battery.

Back to you Mux...that mini Lifan Rotor needs some thought to it. If you are running turn signals...you may want to replace your bulbs as well as your tail light bulbs with low draw LED lamps so you can get the most out of your Headlight. I am going to try running the Lifan 150 Outer Rotor on a bike and see how it performs...and if it doesn't live up to the hype, I'll be putting on either a ricky stator or a traditional one from a CDI CT70.

The easiest way to determine if you have juice coming out is to run the thing and throw a meter on the wire from the stator you are hoping to get juice from. Then run it to the rectifer and check for juice again....

nielspbr

I spliced the yellow from the lifan150 stator to the yellow and the white of the wiring harness.
(so i am feeding both pins of the 4p-rectifier and the main lights from the single stator wire)

(Electricals: takegawa LED combined tacho/speedo, headlight 35/35W, rear 5/21W, turnsignals 10W a piece. Battery is a standard 12V ?Ah one for a e-start clone monkey. Always running lights and no problems with the electrical supply.)

muxster

You guys rock! Finally we have some great CHINA Feedback! Thanks Z and Nielsbpr etc,

88ccmotoX

WHat wires do you have coming from the ORK? My YX ORK had 2 yellows that when I put a meter accross the (set for AC volts) I found my power. I ground one of the yellow and the other to my Moose rectifier then to my distribution block. Do know if this helps but thats how the YX ORK works.

Oh and I 2nd the LED bulbs where ever possible!

muxster

I have a single yellow that has 12v coming from the stator that my dad wound. He wound according to Monkeytom's instructions. Let's look at this diagram that I followed.

The question is what side of the Rectifier are we looking at? I believe its t anhe rectifier side of it. At the top left of the rectifier you see "RED" and that it's labeled 12v / 3A which I assumed to be the battery.
Green is grounded under my seat latch. Yellow coming from the stator goes to yellow. I also put another yellow wire into the butt connector going into the rectifier that goes into my harness's stock CT70 yellow wire. This power the head light when the motor is running.

The red lead when measure when the bike is running at idle puts out about 5v but when you increase the throttle the output increases to around just under 12v and thats with around 3/4 throttle.

NIELSPBR - stated that he jumped the yellow wire from the stator to the yellow lead on the rectifier as well as the to the blank lead shown in this diagram. IS that correct? Would be the lead to the right of the red one. NO?

My dad wound the coil based on the mixed info I gave him. He believes that by alternating the middle coil when he wrapped the 3 of them this maybe reducing the amount of power that is being outputted currently. However, I am looking at the LIFAN version of the 12v Stator and I cannot tell if the coils are all wrapped the same direction or not.

muxster

Can you post a photo of this? I was actually thinking of doing the same thing.

nielspbr

If you can wait until tomorrow for that pic, no problem.

3-UP

Man you know an engineer is involved when making the simplest circuit so complicated . The windings have to be wound in opposite directions as stated several times and you cannot put your winding to ground as in your pic it has to go to the other yellow on your rectifier as was already stated several times in several of your threads.

fatcaaat

,,,nevermind...