Planet Minis

Z

I see alot of people build bikes but very few people use the proper size hoses on oil coolers. Anything smaller then a 4AN creates a bottleneck and restricts the flow of oil to and from an oil cooler. The takegawa slimline hoses are too small and I scratch my head on my Takegawa even sells those tiny hoses. The takegawa slimline hose is a 3AN brake hose. 3AN is too small.

I like to use 6AN Earl's Autoflex Stainless Braided Hoses for my projects with Earl's swivelseal fittings due to a greater application of bends and the beefy look. The lines hold more oil and I see this as a benefit as well. Earl's makes pretty much any type of adapter you'll need to use and custom make your own lines. It can get a touch pricey, but looks great and will last the life of your bike.

The first obstacle is cutting the stainless braided hose. The boys at anplumbing.com were nice enough to explain how to properly cut and install hoses without cutting the crap out of your hands or making a mess. You use a hammer and chisel! No cutoff wheels or hacksaws that make a huge mess and fray the lines. No taping the cuts before you cut them.

All the vids can be seen here that will shed some light and take the guesswork out of using earls lines.

AN Plumbing.com Technical Section, Earls Performance Products,Technicle Information

Hose cutting:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1J7u8sG118"]YouTube - Hose Cutting[/ame]

Installing a Swivelseal fitting:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto&feature=related"]YouTube - #6 Swivel Seal Assembly[/ame]

Last night, it took me 15 minutes to hook up the oil cooler on my CT70 project. Clean, no mess and no bloody fingers.

I used a Daytona oil takeoff plate that has 10mmX1.25 Pitch banjos.

I removed the banjo bolts and run an Earl's 10mmX1.25P adapter to 6AN Male. I needed two of these.

I then ran a 6AN swivelseal fitting 90 degrees on the top, and a 60 degrees on the bottom for clearance.

The Takegawa oil cooler I used has a 12mmx1.0 Pitch thread, so I used a 12mmX1.0P adapter to 6AN male (X2) and a 6AN 90 degree on the left side and a 120 degree on the right.

Cut my hose to length and voila, easy project and clean install. I added a hose bracket for show, but it really wasn't needed.

I like the blue and red fittings, but if you don't like the bright color, Earl's makes the swivelseal fittings in black as well. I'll do the same with the tappet cover here once I get my tappet cover tapped for a 1/8 NPT thread. I'll run a 1/8 NPT with a 90 degree bend.

Earl's fittings can be fit to almost any oil cooler. You just need to figure out what the thread pitch is on your existing cooler and get a takeoff plate that will accept fittings and you are good to go.

Keep the rubber side down ladies and gents.

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supernes550

great info dan. thanks for sharing and providing some insight.

shw911

Thanks for providing us the info, Z. Good stuff to know since I'll be doing this soon.

EddieNewYork

Dito, thanks Dan!

fatcaaat

Now that would have been really useful this spring. I used a cutoff wheel and duct tape and had at least 5 finger pricks. Also, I think the swivel connectors are superior, so If I ever need to do this again, I'll be sure to use them.

Z

Swivelseal are easier since you can turn the fittings and rotate the hose before you tighten everything down. The fittings are just bloody expensive.

I can duplicate a $600 Japanese oil cooler set for 50% of the price by using an earl's cooler. You just have to bring your own brackets to hang the cooler and you have the best oil cooler setup on the market bar none.

I pieced together my takegawa unit as I like the way it mounts on the front of the engine since the 12V CT70 has little mounting points on my project.

Z

Drop me an email so we can keep this thread on topic.

50r

i always thought that with the thicker hoses alot of oil would travel into the oil cooler and alot of oil would leave too quickly, not giving it the time it needs to hang around the oil cooler and get cooled properly .
i thought the slimmer hoses let the oil stay in the oil cooler longer giving it more time to get cooled down.
thats wired so why does takegawa sell oil cooler kits with the slim hoses? is there proof of the bottleneck with the 3an slim hose? i was thinking of getting the slim hoses but now because of your thread im stuck again,so i got to figure this out.what do you think Z am i wrong?

Z

Takegawa makes the slimline hoses because people think they look cool. However, they also make the more expensive allegri hoses that are comparable to running Earl's hoses.

While I can't speak for others, I want oil to be flowing and not backing up in the oil cooler so it can run efficiently. The optimal setup is running the Takegawa clutch that utilizes the thermostat so the engine gets up to temp before it flows to the cooler.

I'm not a fan of the tiny slimline hoses. Your opinion may differ.

3cyltrbo

thanks

great thread, very helpful

thank you

Will

fatcaaat

FYI, I just took delivery on a GPX160 motor that I plan to upgrade to a v2 177. The oil cooler appears to be a decent enough item, but the lines are completely unacceptable. I have enough Earl's hose from last setup, but I'm going to have to buy fittings.

If any of you guys are running a GPX and using those brake line hoses, you should seriously consider upgrading. That GPX oil pump puts out about 3x as much oil as a HV in a stock 50 base motor. Take advantage of that with the bigger lines.

goldenboy81

Fatcat or Z (or anyone for that matter). I also have the GPX 160cc engine and I have mounted my oil cooler to the forks of my CT70. I have custom length -4AN hoses and earl adapters for the cooler. However, I can't find the correct adapters for the engine. I need a 8mm x 1.25P to -4AN adapter. Anyone know where to source this? Or what are my other options?

Grafixxs

Local speed shop (even ebay has them) can get you the -4's, thats what I used also. Dan, those 6's that you used are huge man,lol. I like the fact that you mounted it up right. How do people not understand, having a oil cooler mounted with the hose's at the bottom makes no sense. Might as well have a 1 row cooler then,lol.

P.S. Don't forget to remove that tape from your tappet cover Dan.

goldenboy81

This isn't just any -4 adapter (trust me, I've contacted the shops and Ebay doesn't have it). The -4AN isn't the hard part to locate, it is the 8mm x 1.25 pitch that is the hard side of the adapter. Let me know if anyone else has any ideas....

cdoublejj

Interesting, thats a good share of info i'll probably be telling others about this. Thank you. also is this in the technical resources?

Adam z50+R

[quote=Z;988395]

Earl's fittings can be fit to almost any oil cooler. You just need to figure out what the thread pitch is on your existing cooler and get a takeoff plate that will accept fittings and you are good to go.

quote]

top info Z do you? or any other guys know the fitment/thread pitch for

a. superhead +R take-off plate
b. daytona 7 row cooler (of which the fittings are huge)

i currently use 6mm internal bore hosing (braided) but with end finishers and push fit connections (shoddy, i know)

i've also seen a version of the +R take-off plate with screw fixings hopefully i can use the one i have

Motarded

Really? -6?!

goldenboy81

So what does the take-off plate do? Will it help me here? These are where I was just going to put two Earl's fittings at (one for the braided oil line out to the oil cooler and one for the return). However, these holes only accept the 8mm x 1.25 Pitch which Earl's does not make.