Planet Minis

muxster

So I have waited awhile and finally got an NHRC pipe the mail. I went to install it and I am having trouble. My clutch is getting in the way. Can someone help me PLEASE!!! This is 140cc LiFan motor.

See pics.

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muxster

anybody run into this before?

FastMC

Looks like a similar bend to the Kitaco pipe, but mine does hug the motor quite that close. Looks like you got some tweaking to do. Maybe bend the clutch actuator arm down a bit and readjust the pipe a little higher ? Ahh the joys of simple bolt on aftermarket parts !!! Where did you get the pipe ? Havent heard of NHRC yet.

muxster

The pipe is from DrATV. I was convinced this was going to go smoothly. DOH!

muxster

Where is the post for the guy who built the 150 lifan CT70 in pink for his wife?

50rider340

id say bend the arm down as much as possible and you might have to dent in the pipe right there just a little so it gets by. Also like fast MC said put the pipe in the back up a little more. Just enough so it can clear it. Or maybe come outward with it so the arm is more behind the pipe instead of right under it.

muxster

I have 3 options, another user had the same problem and said he had 125cc lifan motor laying around. He used the clutch arm off of that and it worked. (option 1)

(option 2) is to have some fabricate a new arm to clear. Have a buddy who can weld etc.

(option 3) to cut and add a piece at the header to make the pipe sit upwards a little more. (Do not like this option though.)

nielspbr

Dan Lorenze http://www.planetminis.com/f14/my-la...0-a-94448.html

option 4: Dent the pipe at the underside so the clutchlever runs free.

1998 Honda Z125R

(option 5) heat the pipe with a torch and bend it up a little out of the way of the clutch arm.

I have done this several times and it did not hurt the finish on any of the pipes. I even did it to a $150 FMF pipe on a CRF50. I had the exact same problem as you: the FMF pipe hit the clutch arm on a gpx160. The trick is to use just enough heat, too much heat and youll blue the pipe. But your pipe will eventually discolor from heat anyways. Way better of an option than putting a dent in your pipe, or going through all the work of messing with the clutch arm, IMO. Itll take 10 minutes and you can make all the clearance you want.

muxster

1998 - Thank you for that info. Any ideas on point to heat at? At the header bend?

1998 Honda Z125R

I would say at the bend; but its hard to say, i dont know what the entire pipe looks like. Could you post a pic of the whole right side of the bike, that way i could see the entire pipe and put in my 2 cents. And make sure you put some wet rags/towels all around where your torching so you dont mess up your bike or motor.

muxster

MAN....what a fool I feel like. BUT THANK YOU for the ideas. I went over to my dad's house setup the acetylene torch. Explained to him about the bending etc. He reaches down and bends the damn clutch lever and BAM! The SOB fit! What I did was to mount the header first with the pipe swung away from the bike about 6" at the muffler. Then swung it over and bolted the strap for the muffler. I have about little less than a 1/4" of play between the clutch lever and the header.

Works perfectly and makes the bike run so much smoother!

Now, anyone have any pics of what they have done to get the baffle dialed in? It sounds tight but I know it needs to breathe more. Any pics would be appreciated.

Muxster

The 26incher

Mike, if you don't want that kick starter, I'll trade you for the one that came with that engine...

muxster

Jason, we can try and see if the stock will work. You have to hear this thing now!

NHCT70

I have the same pipe with the carbon fiber can. It does sound great. My pipe has rust coming thru the chrome already. Its only three months old. It was $125 less than the chp cf pipe. As the saying goes "you get what you pay for".

muxster

Im happy with this pipe. No rust seen yet. The pipe is pretty darn loud but sure makes a hell of a difference!