Planet Minis

Dave1rocks

How do you wire up a 1969 Z50 with no battery? I know a wires come out of the points, goes to the coil and kill switch, what about the other 2 wires that come out of the right side of the stator, the lefts side has a wire that goes to the condensor, points? I am really confused and would appreciate a little help. thanks

HondaZrider

http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-f...o.270236-).jpg

para

A '69 Z50 with a battery? I didn't think the Z50 ever had a battery !

mexicanyella

Some K1s did, with a cute little rectifier and everything. It was a lead-acid battery about the size you'd use for a cufflink or tie-tack. I've never ridden one, but I'd assume it made the headlight and brake light more useful when idling...

Dave1, are you trying to sort out jumbled wires, or are you working on a bike that is missing its harness, or what? Without condoning performing mods to a classic hardtail, I will mention that the wiring harness on Z50Rs from '79 to '87 were about as simple as you can get, and it's a 6V points ignition still. If you didn't need lights and just wanted it to run, you could wire it like that. There's a Z50R manual with wiring diagram here on this site in .pdf format:

http://www.honda50.com/partslists/z50r-shop.pdf

Temporarily, of course. The key switch and correct lights are kind of cool to have. I ride mine in the dark a lot and need the lights.

Dave1rocks

Thanks everyone for your help. I have no battery or rectifier. As far as the ignition switch it is bypast now, I have no key any more. I put 6 volts up to + side of the coil. (touched it briefly) I get spark, so it is not the coil, I get a reading on my meter between my wire that goes between my points and coil is good. Am I to assume this is my stator that is bad, (bye the way I have no headlight or tail light. thanks Dave

Dave1rocks

By the way I have 3 wires off my stator. do the other 2 go to my ignition swith or lights that I do not have? thanks Dave

mexicanyella

Am I to assume this is my stator that is bad, (bye the way I have no headlight or tail light. thanks Dave[/QUOTE]

Are you sure your points are good? Flat, clean contact faces and gapped correctly (.012-.016")? I'd verify that and make sure none of the wires under the flywheel have come apart or have bare places touching metal or something like that before assuming you need to replace the stator coils. Sounds like you've verified that your coil still works; that's good. I'll have a look at my '71 wiring and my son's '79 later when I can get out there if that will help.

Dave1rocks

Thanks everybody for your help so far. Still no spark though I ram a test that the manual suggested I put a trouble light between a 6 volt source and ground and the other to the black wire off my points. now the manual say's rotate the flywheel clockwise and everytime the flywheel pass the F mark on it the light should get dimmer and it remains the same does that say that there is a short in the wire inside the stator, touching a ground or ? thanks Dave. ps I hope this makes sence

mexicanyella

I'm not sure I understand how you've wired the test light. If you're saying the light and the points are both between the 6V source and ground, then yeah, the light should be lit when the points are closed and at the beginning of points opening the circuit will start to get broken and the light will dim/go out.

Are the points even opening when you rotate the flywheel, visible through the flywheel holes at one point in each rotation? Their adjustment hasn't slipped or the fiber heel hasn't worn to the point that they aren't even breaking contact? I would think if there was a short, and the points are visibly opening, then the light would stay on when they were open as current would divert through the short and still flow. Alternatively you could put your multimeter in series with the points and a current source and verify that current stops flowing when they're open.

I know it can happen, but I'm a little doubtful that a short is the problem, and I only say that because I've not encountered it myself before on any of my bikes. Problems with points wear and adjustment happen all the time, so:

And the points contact faces aren't pitted, are clean and are gapped right? It doesn't take much pitting or grit to make them not work. Make absolutely sure they're not the culprit before suspecting the other stuff under the flywheel.

Dave1rocks

Hey I better check my points a little closer. I had to put 2 feeler gauges together to make a .14 because my gauges went around that size mabey my points are not quite opening but I changed them. What about the condenser I had to sodder 3 wires to it and it was kind of a pain. I ordered stator parts and I will have to re sodder the wires again. My stator plug is now just wires connected together with the coil and there is black, green, white & I know the black goes to my coil are the other 2 for my switch?

Dave1rocks

Ok I changed the stator and still no spark I Put a test ligth between the positive side of the coil and a ground, lites up a rotate my flywheel and the lite does not get any dimmer or goes out. My stator was a little strange I bought it off ebay (No instructions) the lite side with 2 wires I did not install the Primary side had a 1 wire protruding from the side and 1 wire looped it the middle , 1 small I assumed a ground since it was twice as small as the other wires and so short it would only reach the install screw I contacted the lady off ebay and she said the hooped end goes to my points and the 1 wire goes to my condenser, it had 3 wires originally the wire to my spark plug coil, points, condenser all to together, does this make any sence thanks ps here is a little diagram I tryed to draw

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