Planet Minis

Tiller1k

I joined the site quite a while ago and lost the old login and pw but decided to register again and post instead of lurk.

I just traded for an "almost new" SSR110 DX-3. I am looking at trying to build it up slowly for TMGP. I do track days now with a GSXR 600 and an SV650. I am looking for something a little cheaper and closer to home. I don't plan to throw a ton of money into this yet. I want to get out and give it a try first. Since the bike is pretty much stock with 12/10 knobby setup, the first order of business is a wheel and some tires.

I have had some recommedations to upgrade the rear wheel to a 12" rather than downsize the front to a 10" since there is a better selection of tires. It sounds like I would need a new sprocket too if I change the gearing with an bigger wheel.

What size should I be running? What size tires (F/R) should I be looking for? Suggestions for gearing?

I appreciate any comments regarding the best path to take in this build and some of what you consider "the basic necessities" to take the bike out to the kart track.

BlackBeard

im not too familiar in your questions asked but I can say that sv650's are sweet bikes!

trackstar

Good to see another road racer here! I run in the MOM Series at Miller.

Up to the 12's. I'm running the Michelin Boppers. Great tires on my Pitsters.

Gearing I'm a 17 front and a 39 rear I think.

Tiller1k

Thanks for the info. I still love RR but had a bad crash last year and 3 surgeries so I am slowing down a bit.

What size tire are you running on the F/R? I am thinking about buying a new hoop and spokes and making the rear bigger unless there is a cheaper easier way to do it. I wouldn't mind just getting another set of wheels/tires since it is fun to go run around with the knobbies.

I am a noob to the minis so if you have a favorite website for parts, post up. I will be checking out the sponsors as I go.

BTW - I am jealous. I would love to ride out at Miller!

trackstar

120/70 front and rear.

PM at ya

Tiller1k

PM replied and thank you!

The next mystery is the rear shock. It looks like an air shock with a valve stem on it. I can't seem to find anything about this. How high or low the pressure should be and how much can it take before it explodes? The manual is a joke.

Anyone play with their stock rear shock or did you trash it and get something better right away. I can tell already that the preload is a little weak.

trackstar

I checked, I'm running a 37 rear. Forgot I changed it.

scottiedawg66

the tire to have is the dunlop TT92 120/80/12 and 90/100/12...work awesome with a 2.15" x 12 rear rim with the 120...even better with a 2.5" rear. I have a 1.8" front rim on my 140 4 stroke, and a 2.15" on my kx65 and I like the profile with the 2.15" f 2.5" r
ALOT.

But the china "motard" wheel kits are cheap and come 1.8" x 12 and 2.15" x 12 with the kenda k761 I got mine for under $200....not bad to have a 12" motard set up and keep a complete dirt set up. Once the kendas wear out get some TT92s and get ready to drag some pegs!

Tiller1k

That is good to hear. Trackstar was helping me out with these too. The person I got the bike from may have some in his parts pile from one of his other bikes.

I am itching to get these on the bike and play. This guy also has an aluminum swingarm and shock that he is trying to sell me. I think it is an 18" but I was planning on a 17". Any suggestions for the longer swinger? I would like something more stable but I don't want to get too long and have it turn like a school bus either.

teddy

In 12" state side the ONLY option at the moment is the Dunlop TT92GP......... everything else palls in comparison

10" killer option is the MAXXIS GP...........

Tiller1k

I am looking forward to getting out there. We have a kart track about 10 mins from home so I will probably go through some tires!

mo' tarded

Hey tiller good to see ya over here to... from SMJ pazzo.

Some things to consider:

If you are going to run TMGP F7, go with the TT92 100/90-12 front and rear on 2.15's. The 120 rear is quite a bit bigger, you don't need it for F7 and it takes more power to speed it up cause it's heavier.

The china wheel kits are hard to beat price wise. You can run the 100 on the 2.5 rear but the 120 is a better profile.

If you are gonna bump the motor up to an F5 bike, the def go with the 2.5/120 rear.

TT92's actually last a LONG time. So get the size right for your build the first time.

Katy likes a four stoke with low end. It's a tight track with only one straight. You'll be better off running a little shorter gearing than tall, but you'll lose a bit on the one straight. My KLX will run pretty fast shifting just two times!! I can get around the track a little faster shifting 4 times. The two smokers have to shift a bazillion times poor bastards! Haha. You def want your gearing right.

If you know you trans gear ratios, I can tell you what will be close. You can tweak it from there.

For denton you will probly find one tooth up on the CS will be good.

PM me on SMJ if want, I can help ya out.

tjindo16

i am running bt601s 100 front and rear... have not put them on the rims yet due to waiting on new rear rim and spokes. But i here nothing but good things about them... good luck with the build bro.

Tiller1k

Thanks for the info!

Mo - I appreciate the info on the tracks. That is good to hear. I am going to be changing the rear sprocket to compensate for the taller tire so I will keep that in mind. I was thinking a 41t rear and sticking with the std CS until I sort things out and see where I end up. I may take you up on that offer with a PM on SMJ.

Still sorting out the tires and wheels right now.

micwich

tyre choice dunlop tt91/92,pmt slicks,sava soft,sava super softs cold weather only/and if you can find a pair bridgestone bt601s.all these tyres are pretty much the best choice out there for racing.ive raced on all of them apart from the pmt slick.but the tt92/bt601s are the best of the ones i have raced on.

mo' tarded

You can lead a horse to water ..... HAHA

I'd go a little diff. Since you are running a 4 stroke, your r's and ratios are probably close to most of the bikes I know. Generally, you want to go as small on the rear as you can. most 4s bikes I know are running 38/39. Then make your changes at the CS. Why o why you ask? Cause CS sprockets are cheaper plus at the track, CS changes are a 5-10 min deal. Changing the rear sprocket involves removing the rear wheel. That adds time. It's just easier to replace the CS than the rear... thought food.

Tiller1k

Mmmmmmm...thought food... My favorite kind of food.

That is a very good idea. I will take that advice. I will see what I can do with the sprockets and keep it simple. I have had some recommendations for the track in Katy and the other up near Dallas. As far as the TMGP is concerned, those are the only ones I really need to worry about at this point.

The chain on this bike is a pile-o-shyte so I may go ahead and look at a CS and chain at the same time.

Thanks Mo!