Planet Minis

mk2davis · 09-14-2009, 05:36 PM

I have a Japanese NS-1 with the AC-08 engine. I've been trying to find the timing specs for this, but I haven't been able to find that or the the specs for the US NSR.

If someone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I also need to know how to change the timing. My bike doesn't rev above 10k anymore, even though I have a better exhaust (BWR), bigger carb, and Nology wires.

Any and all help is appreciated.

NCNSR · 09-14-2009, 07:26 PM

This was all i could come up with
NS-1 ƒT[ƒrƒXƒ}ƒjƒ…ƒAƒ‹ - Google ‰æ‘œŒŸõ

You could get the service manual from japan.......Figures the page they have it open to has nothing to do with the timing

mk2davis · 09-14-2009, 07:35 PM

I thought my issue might be a bad Posh Super Battle CDI. I switched it out with my brother's stock unit for his NSR, but no change.

I'd hate to buy (and then wait for) a Japanese manual only to not be able to read it.

Secondary question: Does any one know what the timing maps are like on the Posh CDI's?

reefmuncher · 09-15-2009, 05:36 AM

Hey sounds interesting, which model is yours, the single or double headlight version? Don't know much about the specifics of the mapping or where you would find such info.

It sounds like it used to rev over 10k at some point based on what you've mentioned and if the CDI's do not appear to be the cause it'll be something else? Does it miss like when hitting a rev limiter or just taper off rapidly?

I know on mine back in the day the pipe type for sure affected the power curve, some giving a sharp power spike with rapid drop off, others less power but a wider powerband with a more tapered overrev.

It's been a long time (10 years) since I ran mine, but I seem to remember 10k being where it would tend to peak, though running a big bore NSR80 engine I was never so bothered as the pistons in the kits we ran were breaking up on buddies racing the higher revving Euro NS-1 setups!

Be interesting to hear what you find, best of luck!

mk2davis · 09-16-2009, 10:59 AM

I don't know, I bought the back after it had been laid down and hence no fairings. I plan on turning it into a dual light bike.

Just before I had engine work done (milled head, port, polish, exhaust timing heightened, new HRC crank, bigger carb, new pipe, nology wires) it would rev to 13.8k in 5th, and 11.8k in 6th. That was with stock gearing. I've heard "mixed" reviews about Nology, so my next step is to replace those back to the stock wires, and see what that does. Hopefully that will get me back to where I was.

I've tried 4 different pipes, and stock and modified reed cage, stock and bigger carb, and the problem stays consistant. It's almost as if I'm hitting a rev limiter. Sometimes I can get it to spike to 10800, but it won't stay there and has trouble maintaining anything higher than 9300. It seems to start pulling at 8500-9000. under acceleration it starts to cut out at 9500-9800.

I'm having a 3rd shop look at it tomorrow. Hopefully this is all operator error because I don't know any better. 2 strokes are new to me.

reefmuncher · 09-16-2009, 11:25 AM

I'll throw this idea at you, not sure if it's possible but try it. I don't know if you are aware of the gear indicator switch on the engine. (if your bike has this?) But if for some reason it was fitted wrong or the pin missing it could leave your bike in a lower RPM limit. Long time ago before the unrestricted CDI's came out and I could get a Daytona digital CDI for my bike I had it connected to my subframe and could basically "set" my own RPM limit. I'm not sure the chance of that happening but who knows?

What I found interesting is the gear restriction of the Japanese CDI does not operate on my Euro NSR and actually gives much better performance, basically matching if you modify the CDI to be unrestricted.

I don't know what the Nology stuff is, but could be best to make specific steps of elimination to figure where things changed.

mk2davis · 09-16-2009, 05:38 PM

Gentlemen,

I have a breakthrough. When I received my motor back from Calamari, the spark plug gap was set at .030. The proper gap should be shorter than that, right now it's at .020 (1st adjustment) and I saw 13k.

I'm much happier now. I'm still going to adjust my timing, play with the different wires and gaps, but now I've got a start.

NCNSR · 09-16-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mk2davis

Gentlemen,

I have a breakthrough. When I received my motor back from Calamari, the spark plug gap was set at .030. The proper gap should be shorter than that, right now it's at .020 (1st adjustment) and I saw 13k.

I'm much happier now. I'm still going to adjust my timing, play with the different wires and gaps, but now I've got a start.

Another ringing endorsment for team Scamamari.......

reefmuncher · 09-16-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mk2davis

Gentlemen,

I have a breakthrough. When I received my motor back from Calamari, the spark plug gap was set at .030. The proper gap should be shorter than that, right now it's at .020 (1st adjustment) and I saw 13k.

I'm much happier now. I'm still going to adjust my timing, play with the different wires and gaps, but now I've got a start.

Well it's sometimes the simple things, one for the log book!!

09-14-2009, 05:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
mk2davis PM Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9 My Mood:	NS-1 ignition timing specs I have a Japanese NS-1 with the AC-08 engine. I've been trying to find the timing specs for this, but I haven't been able to find that or the the specs for the US NSR. If someone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I also need to know how to change the timing. My bike doesn't rev above 10k anymore, even though I have a better exhaust (BWR), bigger carb, and Nology wires. Any and all help is appreciated.

09-14-2009, 07:26 PM	#2 (permalink)
NCNSR Mod formerly known as Culdesac Join Date: May 2008 Location: Garden City, N.Y. Posts: 945 My Mood:	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs This was all i could come up with NS-1 ƒT[ƒrƒXƒ}ƒjƒ…ƒAƒ‹ - Google ‰æ‘œŒŸõ You could get the service manual from japan.......Figures the page they have it open to has nothing to do with the timing Last edited by NCNSR; 09-14-2009 at 09:41 PM.

09-14-2009, 07:35 PM	#3 (permalink)
mk2davis PM Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9 My Mood:	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs I thought my issue might be a bad Posh Super Battle CDI. I switched it out with my brother's stock unit for his NSR, but no change. I'd hate to buy (and then wait for) a Japanese manual only to not be able to read it. Secondary question: Does any one know what the timing maps are like on the Posh CDI's?

09-15-2009, 05:36 AM	#4 (permalink)
reefmuncher 1st Gear Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 122	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs Hey sounds interesting, which model is yours, the single or double headlight version? Don't know much about the specifics of the mapping or where you would find such info. It sounds like it used to rev over 10k at some point based on what you've mentioned and if the CDI's do not appear to be the cause it'll be something else? Does it miss like when hitting a rev limiter or just taper off rapidly? I know on mine back in the day the pipe type for sure affected the power curve, some giving a sharp power spike with rapid drop off, others less power but a wider powerband with a more tapered overrev. It's been a long time (10 years) since I ran mine, but I seem to remember 10k being where it would tend to peak, though running a big bore NSR80 engine I was never so bothered as the pistons in the kits we ran were breaking up on buddies racing the higher revving Euro NS-1 setups! Be interesting to hear what you find, best of luck!

09-16-2009, 10:59 AM	#5 (permalink)
mk2davis PM Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9 My Mood:	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs I don't know, I bought the back after it had been laid down and hence no fairings. I plan on turning it into a dual light bike. Just before I had engine work done (milled head, port, polish, exhaust timing heightened, new HRC crank, bigger carb, new pipe, nology wires) it would rev to 13.8k in 5th, and 11.8k in 6th. That was with stock gearing. I've heard "mixed" reviews about Nology, so my next step is to replace those back to the stock wires, and see what that does. Hopefully that will get me back to where I was. I've tried 4 different pipes, and stock and modified reed cage, stock and bigger carb, and the problem stays consistant. It's almost as if I'm hitting a rev limiter. Sometimes I can get it to spike to 10800, but it won't stay there and has trouble maintaining anything higher than 9300. It seems to start pulling at 8500-9000. under acceleration it starts to cut out at 9500-9800. I'm having a 3rd shop look at it tomorrow. Hopefully this is all operator error because I don't know any better. 2 strokes are new to me.

09-16-2009, 11:25 AM	#6 (permalink)
reefmuncher 1st Gear Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 122	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs I'll throw this idea at you, not sure if it's possible but try it. I don't know if you are aware of the gear indicator switch on the engine. (if your bike has this?) But if for some reason it was fitted wrong or the pin missing it could leave your bike in a lower RPM limit. Long time ago before the unrestricted CDI's came out and I could get a Daytona digital CDI for my bike I had it connected to my subframe and could basically "set" my own RPM limit. I'm not sure the chance of that happening but who knows? What I found interesting is the gear restriction of the Japanese CDI does not operate on my Euro NSR and actually gives much better performance, basically matching if you modify the CDI to be unrestricted. I don't know what the Nology stuff is, but could be best to make specific steps of elimination to figure where things changed.

09-16-2009, 05:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
mk2davis PM Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9 My Mood:	Re: NS-1 ignition timing specs Gentlemen, I have a breakthrough. When I received my motor back from Calamari, the spark plug gap was set at .030. The proper gap should be shorter than that, right now it's at .020 (1st adjustment) and I saw 13k. I'm much happier now. I'm still going to adjust my timing, play with the different wires and gaps, but now I've got a start.

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