Planet Minis

prokaw875

Hey guys, imma make this one short and sweet. My takegawa 106/mikuni 22mm bike is running like a total peice of crap and barely holding and idle if even starting at all. Its got compression... spark... no leaks... carb was never tuned right on...

So long story short im stumped and before I am gonna bring it to a mechanic I wanted to know if someone wanted to take a look at it and maybe offer some insite. I can drive to your house, you come to my place... whatever... and ill for sure toss whoever some cash for helping me out. Oh and im located in Vernon,CT. About 10-15min north of hartford on I-84.

Thanks guys

ix42

I'm in Woodstock, CT. What are the symptoms and what have you done to correct them?

prokaw875

When I'm kicking over the bike it sounds like it is firing and wanty to start but it just won't. Then maybe 1 out of 20ish times it will turn over and be running for about 1 mississippi lol and then just die. No matter what I do, full throttle, no throttle, choke, no choke. It just won't run. Like it used to. It just randomly started doing this one day after I checked the spark plug(which turned out to a good plug). I am just stumped and sick of it... Oh and I gotta change the tube... Again... Its a weekly thing lately lol

lilminis

try a pe24 carb. i think the 22 is too small for this motor.

50rider340

do you have any other carbs laying around? If any of your buddies have a stock 110 carb laying around throw that on there as those are ridiculously easy to jet. If i wasnt busy today and tomorrow id come stop over i live in coventry so prolly 10 minutes away. Where in Vernon are you located? ex. By dennys like close to South windsor, or closer to tolland?

IF you have another carb laying around try and throw that on there. Even if it get it running better, at least you know for sure its the carb then.

prokaw875

I live like off of tunnel rd./valley falls area... so I would say a little closer to dennys rather then tolland. but yea I would say like 15/20 min tops away from coventry depending where u are.

I did try and take the carb from my lifan 125 motor on it but it wouldnt fit. the float ran into the top of the case. I guess now that i thing of it i could have swapped around the intake and tried it that way. maybe thats what ill do tomorrow. Imma go grab a new spark plug too.

And yeah as far as the 22mm carb goes I agree it is to small and should go with a 24mm. I just dont understand how the bike ran on day and how it doesnt run now. Its gotta be carb or electrical issue cause the motor has compression and spark.

traut811

haha, im not in coneecticut, and couldnt help ya on your jetting, but id say get a HD tube and rim lock for your tube problem

OLDSCHOOL

Have you adjusted your Valve lash lately... the 22mm will run fine if the Carb is jetted well.......it will run better all the way around with a REAL quality 24mm Kehlin Carb

Heres my Jetting guide

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.
Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.
Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...
When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.