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| | #1 (permalink) |
| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 482
| KX65 and KLX110
I tried searching this but not much came up. I just sold both of my fiddies and was wondering if i just go get a 65 because i dont know anyone with one. Ive been looking for about a week. And rode two of them. Freakin fast! But i dont like the idea of a 2 stroke to play around on. We usually do pit bike stuff. Do these hang? What from a KLX can i swap onto it? Thanks |
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| 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 446
| Re: KX65 and KLX110
plastics, seat , and gas tank all swap. kx65 stock is almost 14hp and is a 6 speed. It will hang motorwise. Suspension for your weight is always the toughest decision. Cannonracecraft springs up front for $100 and the rear is up to your imagination. I think pitster's lxr rear shock might work but no one has tried it yet? revalve and springs for the stock shock. works or ohlins shock modify to fit a sportbike shock lxr shock? |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Brunswick, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
| Re: KX65 and KLX110
I posted this in the "RM65 pit bike" thread a few posts down. Also check out my KX65 pitbike in the "KX100 pit bike" thread. "I've got dozens of hours into riding my 65, and here's what I've learned about the suspension. The rear seems just about perfect with the PR2 Fox shock I'm running. The front end (stock except with .36 springs per PR2, and 10wt. oil 110mm from the top with the springs out and the forks compressed) works pretty well over the small braking bumps and small stuff, but when I go bigger-- it acts weird on the landings. It kind of acts like I have too heavy of springs in them. It seems like the holes in the damping rods that control compression need to be bigger to allow the oil to flow through more quickly to let the springs compress and absorb the landing. It's like they go into "fluid lock" mode. Also-- they tend to rebound a little bit too quickly due to the heavier springs. (the stock spring rate is .28, I'm running .36 springs). I'm wondering if the holes for compression need to be drilled bigger, then the rebound holes need welded shut and drilled smaller. I'm seriously thinking about getting the 'Zokes for my bike instead of monkeying with the stock forks. I can get them for around $750, because they don't come with the front wheel or brakes, you use the OEM stuff. As far as the motor goes-- I've been running it bone stock for now. If I had more power out of it-- I could ride it a gear higher in the turns-- 4th instead of 3rd! One thing I love about this 65, is that I use all six gears that it has. On my 110-- the motor is stock save for a clutch, cam, and pipe. I generally stay in 2nd and third gears. There are alot of spots that I could go faster, but second gear is a bit low, and the motor isn't powerful enough to pull third. So I usually just pin it in second. The 65 has a really slick close ratio tranny that allows you to use 3rd through sixth. I rarely if ever shift down to second for any turn. Another thing-- is that the shifter only needs to move slightly to shift-- say, 35-40 degrees, compared to the 65 degrees that a 110 takes to shift. Other than that-- I could use another 10 mm added to the shifter length-- and that's WITH the set back Moose pegs. I may try and adjust the shift lever up a notch to see how that works. The set back Moose pegs are a MUST for an adult to ride the bike comfortably in full MX boots. Hope this helps, and GO for the 65! --L*64" |
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