This is a discussion on 1995 Pw 80 within the 2 Stroke Pitbikes forums, part of the General Talk category; Started in on the mini's again, figured I'd share my latest. I scouped up this 1995 pw80.., ran perfect then and it sat for a ...
Started in on the mini's again, figured I'd share my latest. I scouped up this 1995 pw80.., ran perfect then and it sat for a while. So before the clean up I just added fuel and oil, fired right up. Major smoke show Clicked it into gear, stalls. I can hold the revs and it wont die but something isn't right there. Took it up the road and back, and wanted to see how it revved and it just sounds very restricted. Also I forgot to check the crank case oil and it was a bit low but very clean, maybe that explains why the clutch was grabbing hard at idle, but it almost sounded like it slipped shifting? ..So.. I tore it down did the carb/tank clean which were both surprisingly clean. cleaned all ports out as the aluminum was corroding on top side. I read these things were extremely rich from factory, and guys were going up one position on the needle. I did that. Also removed the cone from the silencer, and the washer in the pipe was removed by previous owner. I haven't fired it up since the cleanout. It's turning out great. Before I reinstall the exhaust Im going to use a carbide bit on the 'coned' area where the flange meets the head, looks very restrictive as I've read on some other forums. Doing these mods so far, should that make a drastic difference in how it runs? Like I said I've yet to fire it up but I probably wont do much more other than maybe a top end, sounds like the cylinder has ovaled out a bit and theres some slap in there. Im on edge about removing the oiling system, only reason I want to remove it is for the more precise mixture..
Last edited by Haywire; 06-15-2013 at 10:13 PM.
Last edited by Haywire; 06-15-2013 at 10:11 PM.
Seems my forks are out of wack, I straighten them and they end up being 'out' again in a couple turns. Do CRF 70 forks bolt right up?? I also just hogged the exhaust out, and when that cone came out, what a difference!.. Still haven't fired it up, I will this evening.
Figured there would be more insight around here. Got it fired up, went back to the center location on the needle with the exhaust/intake upgrades. Runs awesome. Also found out why it stalled when clicked into gear, clutch plates are sticking from sitting for so long. Reputable shop in town had a bike with the same issue once. Nice little powerband pull now
As with most Yamaha's of that era, they used toothpicks for forks. You probably have a bent fork tube if it keeps springing back and looking twisted. Loosen the top caps and the lower triple clamps and spin the fork tubes. You should be able to see if one or both are bent. Lots of info on here for your bike, just search PW80 or BW80. Same basic bikes and engines. Check out pwonly.com. They have a PW80 section.
Last edited by 234wheeler; 06-11-2013 at 12:48 PM.
Last edited by Haywire; 06-11-2013 at 10:10 PM.
Yeah, pull the head off. Considering your bike is 20 years old and the design goes back to the 80's I'd feel fortunate to have a store like pwonly.com that would even bother with these. The stealerships would be your only option. What do you mean when you say it's dead around there? They are the only business that's actually coming up with new items for these relics.
I was just talking about the pw80 tech threads, didn't look at the store at all. Im going to pop the head this afternoon
Keep the oil pump on, it's more precise with it hooked up because it gives the right amount of oil to the throttle position and to the rpm.
if only gas was cheaper
Im not sure mine is setup correctly, seems the plug is slightly on the darker side but still noticeably brown in color. Im almost 200 lb and this thing is quite fun compared to my crf50s in the past. Just a big kid!.. waiting for my kids to grow up some
Dove into the clutch today, tons of life left on it for sure, but look old and the plates were marked up. Has some small markings I was able to clean up, probably enough to make the clutch grab at idle? I find its hard to click into neutral when stopped idling. Going to clean these up, reinstall, and see what happens.
Also going to ditch 4 clutch balls, for now, space them evenly. See how this works out.
Last edited by Haywire; 06-14-2013 at 12:01 AM.
Got it back together, click it into gear, still stalls. I took 6 balls out and it feels a lot better, but im going to toss 2 back in.
Im going to try to dial the carb in some, and check that the float level is in spec. I got the pod filter on there now, cone shaped K&N style..