TTR125/YZ85 Conversion Question

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TTR125/YZ85 Conversion Question

This is a discussion on TTR125/YZ85 Conversion Question within the Bigger Minis Forum forums, part of the General Talk category; I'm starting a conversion build, and in all my reading up on things, I haven't seen much talk about the rake angle/handling. I know the ...

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Thread: TTR125/YZ85 Conversion Question

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    TTR125/YZ85 Conversion Question

    I'm starting a conversion build, and in all my reading up on things, I haven't seen much talk about the rake angle/handling. I know the stock rake angle on the YZ is 26 degrees, the TTR is 28. Once I threw the everything on my frame, the front forks just seem to stick out a ways up front. The TTR frame is straight, not bent. Does the steering feel vague, or does it handle decent after the conversion? I want it to understeer and turn decent.

    Thanks in advance!
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    greenducky55's Avatar

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    Do you have a big wheel model or small?

    Some guys slide the forks up in the clamps but with the big wheel the tires hit the fender on big jumps really easy if you do this. Small wheels have more room.

    A few guys have had custom clamps made to reduce the rake.

    Rasing up the rear of the bike helps. Either a longer clevis, longer shock. Or drill the mounting hole to raise the ride height.

    But overall the bike does have slower steering than stock. I'm used to it and don't mind.

    This is how mine sits on a stand. I redrilled the shock hole 1" down and 1" back. It leveled it. I had a softer ride than before. I recently resprung and revalved but have yet to test it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the best pic I have of it on the ground.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by greenducky55; 11-28-2015 at 01:53 PM.

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    motoman287's Avatar

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    I do have the small wheel version and am adding the yz rear end as well to raise it. Any suggestions on where to source clamps? I've also considered modifying the head of the frame to bring things in a bit but would rather avoid that if I can.
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    i know Topat racing can do custom clamps, I don't know if they will do rake or offset modifications but doesn't hurt to ask.
    Emig racing also does custom clamps but the price is high. and i believe RSW racing can hook you up as well.

    this are just places that i know who do custom clamps. There are a few forum members here s well who make clamps, i've mainly seen it in the ATC builds where people use zokes on them.

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    YZ250F4ever's Avatar

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    I don't feel the rake was too bad on my build. I have the 85 rear end and shock in my shop but it ended up being too much work for me to get it to bolt on with the correct progressive shock angle so I just bought a new gold chain and threw a ttr225 shock on mine. It's bolts right on with the longer chain. And I think she sits pretty even. It's a bike I built for the girl friend she seems to like it alot. I also threw on a yz85 28mm carb and I can't believe how much more power it produced. But here is mineClick image for larger version. 

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    -ALEX MONTEER #423 Hidden Content

    My Bikes
    DIRT:
    2013 yz450F (built race bike)
    2011 Yz450F (practice bike)
    2008 Yz250F (full mod)
    2005 TTR125 (moded yz85 conversion Gf's bike)
    2015 ssr160tx (lots of upgrades coming)

    Street:
    2009 DRZ400SM (full mod)
    2007 SDG 140cc

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    Wandell's Avatar

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    How much did the TTR225 shock raise your rear?

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    YZ250F4ever's Avatar

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    I didn't measure but off a guess 2-2 1/2 inches. Matched with the front fork conversion nicely I think
    -ALEX MONTEER #423 Hidden Content

    My Bikes
    DIRT:
    2013 yz450F (built race bike)
    2011 Yz450F (practice bike)
    2008 Yz250F (full mod)
    2005 TTR125 (moded yz85 conversion Gf's bike)
    2015 ssr160tx (lots of upgrades coming)

    Street:
    2009 DRZ400SM (full mod)
    2007 SDG 140cc

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    motoman287's Avatar

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    So, no real updates at the moment (been out of town for most of the last few weeks for work, and the holidays aren't helping). The tires came in, which felt like an early Christmas present to myself.

    I'm going to run the shock reservoir on the left side of the bike so that I can run the stock airbox/intake setup vs. running a pod filter on the carb (personal preference), but that means I'll likely have to cut and re-weld whatever exhaust I go with to dip below and clear the reservoir. Having to cut and re-weld, my thoughts are I'm best off going with a pipe that has a "raw" finish to the header as opposed to something shiny or ceramic coated, like a Big Gun. From what I'm seeing, my options are the FMF 4.1, Pro Circuit, and DR. D pipes, unless I'm missing something. Does anyone have any input or preferences in regards to these pipes? Initial research is looking like most people think the FMF is over-rated. My plans for the motor are to build something with a bit more power than stock, but keep it reliable. Nobody needs to remind me that I'm polishing a turd here...I have a 250f if I want to ride something with actual power. Pure pleasure is all I'm after with this one. Initial thoughts are BBR filter kit, lightened flywheel, cam, porting, bigger carb, and exhaust. I'm not sold on the BBR 150cc kit just due to the thinner cylinder walls. Would the mods mentioned be worthwhile coupled with a high compression Wiseco? What I'm after as far as motor characteristics is something that revs decent without giving up too much low-end, if that's possible.

    Thanks again for any replies. I'm hoping to get back on this after the holidays. Once I nail down what I'm after I can start ordering goodies.
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    motoman287's Avatar

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    Still undecided on which way to go with the motor...seems opinions are mixed on the BBR 150 kit being worth it, and also on which cam is best. I've been collecting parts, hoping to start throwing things together soon. So far I have a Pro Circuit T-4 exhaust, BBR filter kit, Dunlop MX32's, new bearings for the shock, swingarm, and linkage, GYTR tall seat, BBR engine cradle, Motion Pro fork bleeders, a Barnett Dirt Digger clutch kit, and a TM Designworks chain guide/slide kit.

    I still need to order bars, pegs, shifter, chain/sprockets, and figure out my motor. Open to any new suggestions...

    (I know, this thread is worthless without pics).
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    greenducky55's Avatar

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    Here are some options for you and my opinions.

    Stock bore or bore stock sleeve max of 130cc with either a pmw 13:1 or weisco high comp piston. An aftermarket cam (hot cams, web cam, BBR, PMW) lighten the flywheel up if your in the cases remove the counter balencer. If you have confidence in your e start (or have it) remove all the kick start gear for some weight redux. Bbr filter kit and a carb upgrade. Rev box has mixed opinions I had one was nice to rev a little farther on longer straights. (This was my previous setup minus the flywheel and I had tons of fun on it but that's me)

    BBR kit tried and true works well with exhaust flywheel, counterbalance removal, carb*** rev box (your choice) I've ridden one it had more go than mine for sure. You basically have to do the supporting mods to really use it. Our stock carb is crap.

    This new 170cc bore on eBay. I have no clue but the piston is cast and lookks low compression. But I know a place that can fix that and not cost an arm and a leg. Should be an upgrade for sure but you'll need (cam, carb, filter, exhaust and probably port work to make it scream)

    4 valve head: gncc proven by PMW and FPM on the raptor 125. PMWwill not sell you a kit requires your motor to do the conversion. Or a core swap, custom order anything you want basically. Claims good increase in HP and TQ. Downsides, turn around time, price $$$ most expensive option.

    4 valve head diy(kinda) be ambitious like me and buy a craps ton of parts and hope they work and learn your mistakes.
    Pros: can do whatever you want. Possibly cheaper if you get it right the first time.
    Cons: need a good machine shop willing to deal with all the work involved if you can't do it yourself. Delays, availability of a few major parts. (Cam sprocket** motor cant run without one. Your cylinder head has to have the correct oil port) and the list goes on.

    Hopefully those are helpful it all comes down to what do you want to spend. Best bang for your buck is option 1 and 2.

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    motoman287's Avatar

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    I saw the 170 kit on Ebay, and think I'll pass. I'm not out to create a monster, just good, usable power over stock. Looks like option one or two. I was told by Pro Cycle that a decent carb is no longer available for these? I want to retain the stock airbox and boot setup.

    Thanks for the input.
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    greenducky55's Avatar

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    The carb is still available just not the expensive version from bbr.

    You can pick up a mikuni vm series carb fairly cheap. If stock bore is you plan I'd say a vm 24. If you going with big bore I'd say the vm26. Make sure you get a genuine mikuni don't get the knock off its not worth the headache. You cCan get one from a atc200, crf230 and a few other bikes used. Or go brand new you will just have to play with jetting. Also I believe bbr still sell the carb adapter. You'll need the throttle set up from the carb as well.

    I agree on the eBay kit not worth the risk lol.

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    I'm on the east coast. Anyone know someone that can shorten the YZ85 travel? I need to block off about 2" of travel. I checked with Factory Connection and they had no idea. haha
    Last edited by NHrider; 04-27-2016 at 02:12 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NHrider View Post
    I'm on the east coast. Anyone know someone that can shorten the YZ85 travel? I need to block off about 2" of travel. I checked with Factory Connection and they had no idea. haha
    Check with Race Tech. That's who I plan on going with...I believe there's another build thread on here (Fatman*** something or other is his username) where he had them shorten his forks internally.
    1973 ATC70 (restored)
    1981 C70 Passport (original)
    1972 CT70 K1 ("restored" rider)
    1977 CT70
    1978 CT70
    1974 Z50
    1993 CT70: TB117cc w/ Takegawa 5 disc clutch & close ratio 3 speed, Over Ti exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    1994 CT70: Nice 110cc engine, Hotlap Exhaust, G'craft Aux Tank, Kitaco Kicker
    09 TTR/YZ Conversion

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    NHrider's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by motoman287 View Post
    Check with Race Tech. That's who I plan on going with...I believe there's another build thread on here (Fatman*** something or other is his username) where he had them shorten his forks internally.
    Factory Connection is going to shorten the fork travel an inch and set the forks up for my weight. I then can push my fork tubes down an inch which leaves 1/4" of the tube above the clamp.

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