03 TTR125E Electric Starter Question

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03 TTR125E Electric Starter Question

This is a discussion on 03 TTR125E Electric Starter Question within the Bigger Minis Forum forums, part of the General Talk category; Hello, I have a 03 TTR125E, recently some part of the kicker starter broke so I have the bike apart. I think the service manual ...

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    03 TTR125E Electric Starter Question

    Hello,
    I have a 03 TTR125E, recently some part of the kicker starter broke so I have the bike apart. I think the service manual said to remove the right side case cover i have to remove the electric starter motor. So my question is, is it possible to plug up the starter hole and keep the starter motor off? I'd like to do this because in all the years I've owned the bike i have never used the electric start function even when it worked. I read some where i could use a rubber freeze plug. Would i need to remove the gear on the flywheel as well? As for the battery, can i just remove the battery and tape off the terminals or should they be connected together?

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    i would actually reccomend the opposite. use the E-Start and not the kick starter most of us here have broken the countershaft multiple times while starting the bike. me personally i have done it 2 times. and pulling the kickstart lever and shaft and plugging it with a raptor 125 kick start plug, Yamaha Raptor 125 kicker plug side cover case clutch aluminum custom | eBay along with a ballistic or anti gravity batter you will actually same more weight than removing the electric start and almost never break a shaft again.

    but if you really insist on removing the e-start you can use a rubber freeze plug. i believe with the wiring you can just pull the motor and battery remove starter motor cable from the start solenoid, remove the battery cable from both the solenoid and the battery and you should be good. no promises but i believe this will work. Good luck with your repair i've done it a few times its not fun which is why i converted my bike to e-start.

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    I'll take your word and try to get the electric start function working instead of ripping it off. I was just trying to get the kick start lever off but the nut was really on there. I went ahead and opened the case enough to get the extra oil out and some balls from a bearing fell out so i'm not sure what bearing that could be from. Any tips to remove that kick start lever?

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    dirtbkr188's Avatar
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    You're probably going to need to use a pneumatic impact gun to break it loose.
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    impact gun is the easiest really i have always struggled otherwise. you can try finding a way to jam something between the kicker and the frame so that it wont move and go at it.

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    I've already drop the engine because i have to get a weld in a frame crack. I'll get some one to hold it when i go to impact it.BTW do i need to remove the clutch basket to fit it?

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    if its the same shaft that usually breaks. #13 on the transmission diagram, then you will have to split the cases to fix it. its not too bad just follow the manual and you will be fine. but its a complete teardown which is why i say to go e-start.

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    greenducky, I have been contemplating this concept as I am going to be building big bore(180cc or bigger) ttr125. Still debating on following you 4v head swap or just a bore up to keep it cheap and reliable. Ill update my thread later today hopefully.

    Anyway I have a question are you going to be using estart only on yours? I have never put a big bore on an estart motor so I wasnt sure if it could handle it(every ttr ive had that was modded was kick only and I never had issues but others seem to have them). I really want to do estart as I will be using mine for woods riding and love having that magic button when I do spill and am in a 2hr endurance race.

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    mr.skywalker The e starter would probably work with the big bore. I saw BBR motorsports did a TTR125 one off with there 150 big bore kit and removed the kicker and made it e start only.

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    Ive got the clutch off. The only thing broken seems to be this gear. Half the teeth are gone. What would this part be called? I checked for it on motosport.com but for $70 i wanted to make sure i got the right thing. Is GEAR, KICK IDLE (5HP-15651-00-00) right? 20161127_170547.jpg
    Last edited by WyattWatsson; 11-27-2016 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Misspelling

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    It's the right gear, and it's $54 here
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    You might also want to closely inspect all the teeth on the back of the clutch basket where the idler gear meshes for stress cracks or flat spots.
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    check the gear on the clutch basket as well ive snapped that bad boy in half before. also pull the idler gear off and make sure the shaft isnt broken it send to break just behind the gear just at the case.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr.skywalker View Post
    greenducky, I have been contemplating this concept as I am going to be building big bore(180cc or bigger) ttr125. Still debating on following you 4v head swap or just a bore up to keep it cheap and reliable. Ill update my thread later today hopefully.

    Anyway I have a question are you going to be using estart only on yours? I have never put a big bore on an estart motor so I wasnt sure if it could handle it(every ttr ive had that was modded was kick only and I never had issues but others seem to have them). I really want to do estart as I will be using mine for woods riding and love having that magic button when I do spill and am in a 2hr endurance race.
    Im going e-start only. it should turn it over, stormin made mine to run on pump gas so not crazy compression, it has a lightened crank and removed counterbalance/gear so the rotating assembly is light. but we will see soonish.
    on another note i have a gear on the way for the cam that should hopefully be better than my last.

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