"Pit bikes for dummies" must know info - Page 4

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"Pit bikes for dummies" must know info

This is a discussion on "Pit bikes for dummies" must know info within the Chinese/Import Minis - General Discussion forums, part of the General Talk category; Originally Posted by rowza Links dead now Reup? Must have just been down temporarily, because I just tried the link again and after a moment's ...

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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowza View Post
    Links dead now Reup?
    Must have just been down temporarily, because I just tried the link again and after a moment's wait I got the PDF download, as before.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 80sDweeb View Post
    The link works and it has great info, thanks.

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    Link dead again

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    link works. I just downloaded and saved it. thanks. havent read it all yet.

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    Pit Bike purchasing for NEWBIES

    Crucial, Factual Information for the Potential, or New Pit Bike owner

    Contents

    What to expect when purchasing a pit bike Online …………………… Pg 2
    Dealers, Vendors, and Warranties ……………………………….......... Pg 2
    Which bike is for you? ………………………………............................ Pg 2
    Maintenance and Repairs ………………………………........................ Pg 2

    Pre-ride preparation and inspection ………………………………........ Pg 3

    Start-up and Engine Break-in procedure ………………………………. Pg 4

    Fork Servicing, Conventional …………………..................................... Pg 5-6
    Fork Servicing, Inverted (upside down) ………………………………. Pg 6

    General Torque specs ………………………………............................. Pg 7

    Setting the Sag on your bike ………………………………................... Pg 8

    Links to:
    Manufactures, Vendors, Dealers, Parts, etc ………………….....…. Pg 9

    Recommended modifications ………………………………................. Future

    __________________________________________________ ____

    Much of the information contained in this file pertains to 125cc - 160cc YX engines found in many
    Mid sized Pit bikes with 50cc based transmissions, but can be a useful tool with virtually ANY
    Pit bike.

    The majority of the information was compiled from pit bike owners who are members of various
    pit bike forums. I am NOT responsible for any misleading information, or damage you may cause
    to your bike from utilizing this information. Tweek and maintain your bike at your own risk!!!

    **This file will be updated periodically with important Pit bike
    information and recommendations.

    Last Update: Jan 24, 2009


    What to expect?
    This information comes from my own personal experience and is factual.
    For starters, if you are considering a popular, ‘Higher end’ mfg., such as Pitster Pro,
    OGM, SSR, Moto-vert, G2 Moto, etc, you will most likely NOT be able to see one in
    person at a local dealer. Because of that, you will not be able to compare different
    brands or models in person either.

    Why you ask?

    Because purchasing a Chinese pit bike isn’t like purchasing from a Japanese
    company that has Nationwide dealers. Technically there are no ‘dealers’ in the pit
    bike industry. 99% of all bikes that are ordered from the so called ‘dealers’
    across the Internet are actually just drop shipped from directly from the Mfg. If
    you order your bike from an internet ‘dealer’ on the East coast, your bike may
    actually be shipped from California. The person that you purchase the bike
    from will more than likely never see the crate or bike in person.
    Dealers, Vendors, and Warranties
    I am new to the pit bike scene as well, but it doesn’t take long to weave your way thru
    the wool and figure it all out - all of the ‘stuff’ that isn’t brought to the table before
    you buy a bike. The details about pit bikes are sketchy at best. Become an investigator
    and DO YOUR HOMEWORK before laying down the cash. I think that most
    reputable Internet dealers will do as much as possible to make your purchase a
    positive experience.
    Warranty? I’ve never saw an actual written warranty. You won’t get any of the usual
    paperwork that comes with Jap bikes. No owners or service manual. Don’t plan on
    purchasing a manual after you buy a bike either. They do not exist.

    Which bike is for you?

    Like I said above, do your homework before you make a purchase. If you’re reading
    this, you have all the means of studying any bike that you may be considering.
    Become familiar with the “Search” function of forums. They are your best friend. Of
    course you need to consider the source of the post you may be reading from. Learn
    how to weed out the BS.
    Maintenance and repairs
    You need to be able to perform routine maintenance and light repairs on your own.
    Many major dealers will refuse to work on your Chinese bike and will not have parts
    readily available. You will mostly rely on Internet dealers to supply help and parts.


    Pre-ride preparation and inspection
    The recommendations below come from many sources including members of various Pit Bike forums.

    Take the tank off and blow it out. Plastic shavings have been reported inside the tank
    Change the oil right away before you start the engine with 10w40 non synthetic oil
    Loctite all, yes ALL nuts and bolts with Blue loctite. Use RED locktite for the chassis
    and subframe bolts, Clutch nut, and oil slinger
    Check all electrical plugs. Secure and clean as necessary. Add non-conductive grease
    if available
    Check all controls for proper operation
    Lube throttle and clutch cables
    Glue, and/or wire tie the handlebar grips!
    Lower fork tubes to approx. 3/8” - ½ “ above Top Triple clamp. Adjust if necessary
    after riding
    Check and adjust shock/fork settings (compression and dampening)
    Add an inline fuel filter
    Grease steering head bearing and tighten
    Grease swing arm pivot bolt with anti-seize lube
    Grease front and rear axles with anti-seize lube. Do not grease the threads
    Check Valve lash before cranking the engine! They are notorious for being to tight
    and can cause major damage if ran too long, too tight
    Remove the cam chain tensioner and reinstall it... It’s self explanatory how it works
    Check tire pressure
    Check chain slack. 1” - 1.5” slack at middle of swingarm
    Check Clutch nut and Oil slinger nut for tightness. They are known to become loose
    Note: The clutch nut and oil slinger nut require the use of a special, proprietary tool

    Level carb - side to side
    If gas overflows, set the float level. Stock float levels are also known to be out of
    adjustment sometimes
    Add rim locks if possible. At least on the rear rim



    Engine break-in

    Loosen float bowl drain screw until gas runs out of the overflow tube. This ensures
    you are getting gas to the carb.
    Gas on, choke off, no throttle, try to crank. If it will not crank without the choke,
    choke the carb and try again. If it still will not crank after 15 -20 kicks, turn the idle
    screw in (higher idle) about 1 - 1.5 full turns and try again without the choke
    Once running, listen for noises. Run for 2-3 minutes. Let bike get warm/burn in the
    pipe, then shut it down
    Make sure you heat cycle the motor a couple of times to seat the rings
    Allow engine to totally cool down between each heat
    Change oil after each heat cycle and Clean drain plug of metal flakes
    Check the valve lash again after 2-3 heats
    Listen for a internal clutch noise. Some of the YX’s clutch basket nut comes loose
    Check oil level. (look for debris/color/smell)
    Go for short ride testing clutch,shifting,brakes. Check chain tension and wheel
    alignment
    Look over bike for loose or missing bolts.
    Look for leaks on engine and suspension
    Check fuel line for leaks
    Recheck engine oil level
    Check to see if tire has slipped on rim
    Check headset for tension
    Go back and re-torque the head after a hour or so.
    Service oil in forks soon after break-in (more on that below)







    Fork service for ‘Conventional’ forks

    This is “Precision 50’s”, aka “Old schools” advise. Props to him!

    Steps 1 through 12 is based on Conventional fork service not Inverted forks.

    Step 1: Put your bike up on a stand to where the front end will hang off the floor. Then if
    you have a front drum brake remove the brake cable from the front brake lever. If you
    have a front disc brake remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and place a small
    wedge or piece of thick cardboard between the brake pads (this is so the caliper can not
    be mistakenly applied.

    Step 2: Remove the front wheel loosen the axle remove it (pay attention to which side the
    wheel spacers go on) if the axle will not slide out easily then tap it out with a rubber
    mallet and drift and set the wheel aside along with the brake drum and brake cable or the
    front brake disc

    Step 3: now if you have disc brakes remove the caliper and let it just hang out of the way.
    also its good to remove the front number plate just so you have clear access to the all the
    bolts.

    Step 4: now it a real good time to loosen the nut on top of the fork tubes on each fork as
    its a lot easier to loosen while they are held by the triple clamps.

    Step 5: use the correct size socket or wrench to loosen the left side of the upper top
    clamps (pinch bolts) and the lower bolt on the lower left side clamp (do one side at a
    time). now slide the fork tube out of the clamp and over to your work area.

    Step 6: Now with one side off its time to take it apart , now’s a good time to have
    someone else around to be able to hold the forks upright. but not necessary. with the fork
    in the upright position on the floor of your work area. remove the top nut off the top of
    the fork tube. remember the fork is spring loaded and has fluid inside.

    Step 7: now with the Cap off the fork, place the complete fork assembly over a large
    bucket or Pan and pull the fork spring out of the fork tube... the bucket is there so you do
    not make a mess. Now set the spring aside on a clean towel (if your going to re-use it) or
    replacing the spring with aftermarket HD springs. now dump the remaining oil into the
    bucket or large pan, also what your going to want to do is Pump or (compress) the fork to
    extract the oil out continue until all oil is out.

    Continue to next page…


    Step 8: now fill the tube with fork fluid (fork oil) I recommend 20wt and 100mm +/-
    2mm of air gap with the spring out (this is going to be anywhere from 3.5 ounces to 5.5
    ounces depending on the forks) so start out with the lower amount and work you way up
    till you get the air gap. Do this with the fork tube compressed. Once you get the proper
    level and its set, slowly pump the fork tube to get the air bubbles out. once all the bubbles
    are out re-measure the air gap and if more fluid is needed do it now

    Step 9: now extend the fork tube and slowly drop in the old or (new HD Spring). when
    the spring is in re-install the fork cap being very careful not to compress the fork tube and
    spilling out the fork oil.

    Step 10: Re-install the fork up into the fork clamps do not over tighten the bolts or pinch
    bolts ( 8-10 ft lbs of torque). also tighten the top nut cap once the tubes of the fork are
    tight in the clamps do not over tighten the fork cap!!!

    Step 11: Repeat steps 5 through 10 to the right side fork tube

    Step 12: put your front wheel back on make sure the spacers are on the correct side and
    torque the axle nut to 32ft lbs. put the brake caliper on the fork leg if you have disc set-up
    and or reconnect the front brake cable up to the brake lever.


    Note: the Air Gap is the measurement from where the fork fluid level sits inside the fork
    tube in reference to the top of the fork tube. the distance between these two is the air gap







    Servicing “Inverted” (Upside Down) Forks
    Follow the link below to Outlaw Power Sports for a printable PDF file.
    http://www.xpcpowersports.com/Tech/Fork_How_To.pdf






    General Torque Specs for 50cc based transmissions (most pit bikes)
    Thanks to “Mighty Mace” for the following information.

    Frame

    Front Axle: ………….. 45-55 Nm 36.88 ft. lbs
    Rear Axle: …………… 50-60 Nm 40.57 ft. lbs
    Swingarm: …………… 45-55 Nm 36.88 ft. lbs
    Triple Tree Bolts: ……. 30-40 Nm 25.81 ft. lbs
    Shock: …………….…. 38-42 Nm 29.50 ft. lbs
    Engine Mounts: ……… 33-35 Nm 25.08 ft. lbs
    Steering Stem: ……….. 40 Nm 29.50 ft. lbs

    Engine

    Ignition Cover: ……… 10-12 Nm 97.36 in. lbs
    Clutch Cover: ……….. 10-12 Nm 97.36 in. lbs
    Clutch Adjuster Nut: ... 10 Nm 88.51 in. lbs
    Flywheel: ……………. 45 Nm 33.19 ft. lbs
    Clutch: ………………. 45 Nm 33.19 ft. lbs
    Oil Pump: …………… 10 Nm 88.51 in. lbs
    Oil Drain Plug: ……… 25 Nm 18.44 ft. lbs
    Engine Studs: ……….. 10 Nm 88.51 in. lbs
    Cam Bolts: ………….. 12 Nm 106.21 in. lbs
    Head Bolts: …………. 10-12 Nm 97.36 in. lbs
    Cam Cover: …………. 10-12 Nm 97.36 in. lbs
    Spark Plug: ………….. 10 Nm 88.51 in. lbs
    Exhaust: ………….….. 12 Nm 106.21 in. lbs


    Setting the Suspension “Sag” on your Pit Bike

    Two main ingredients to a great handling bike is the race sag and free sag.

    Race sag, is the amount the shock compresses from fully extended with the rider on
    board. The rear race sag is probably the most-important suspension setting you need to
    address before hitting the track or trail.

    Free sag is how much the bike sags under its own weight - without a rider. I will omit this
    step since Free sag will not work out as well on Pit bikes. In most cases you can get away
    with just setting your Race sag.

    To set the Race sag.

    Put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground and measure from the axle
    nut to a point directly above it on the bike. I mark a spot on my rear fender directly
    above the bolt. Write that measurement down as #1.

    Now take the bike off the stand and let it stand upright. With the bike off the stand,
    compress the shock a few times.

    With all of your riding gear on, sit on the bike in the attack position (head roughly
    over the cross brace, elbows up and out and feet up on the pegs), have someone hang
    onto the bike for you and take a measurement again (#2). Subtract #1 from #2. The
    amount of sag in most cases should be approx. 2”.

    Measurement #1 -minus- measurement #2 should = approx. 2”

    If you have less than 2” sag, loosen the preload on the spring and recheck
    measurements.
    If you have more than 2” sag, tighten the preload on the spring and recheck
    measurements.






    Links
    Manufacture websites

    OGM …………. http://www.ogmotorsports.com/
    Pitster Pro …….. http://www.pitsterpro.com/home.php
    SSR …………… Welcome to SSR Motorsports!
    MotoVert ……… Motovert - Australia number 1 brand of performance mini bikes
    G2 Moto ……….. Live » Page 1 of 147

    Bikes and Parts

    Factory Power House inc.
    CHPUSA.NET
    http://www.ogmotorsports.com/parts.php?category=2
    Ahp Minis
    http://www.outlawpowersports.com/
    TBolt USA: Pit Bikes, Engines, Parts, SSR, Pitster Pro, CRF50, KLX110
    http://www.sgr-usa.com/
    KLX110 Parts - Minibike and Pit Bike Accessories
    Honda XR50 parts CRF50 parts Z50 parts CT70 XR70 CRF70 parts performance KLX110 parts DRZ110 accessories XR100 CRF70 XR70 CRF100 NOS Honda pitbike pitbikes XR50 Z50 Honda minitrail CT70 Honda NOS parts Z50 CT70, Honda trail 50 70 , Honda Z50 CRF50 QA
    www.medinaminisx.com
    .: Pitster Pro - Shop :.pit bike parts, pit bike accessories, crf 50 parts, klx 110 parts, pitster pro parts, ttr 110 parts, mini bike parts and accessories,for all your pit bike parts needs

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