Broken Shock Solution: for DNM/Fastace BS-69RC---try Yamaha R1/R6 shock, $39 shipped

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Broken Shock Solution: for DNM/Fastace BS-69RC---try Yamaha R1/R6 shock, $39 shipped

This is a discussion on Broken Shock Solution: for DNM/Fastace BS-69RC---try Yamaha R1/R6 shock, $39 shipped within the Chinese/Import Minis - General Discussion forums, part of the General Talk category; My DNM/Fastace BS-69RC shock had an unannounced catastrophic failure, and I found one other post on this same issue, posted back in 2208: the shaft ...

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  1. #1
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    Broken Shock Solution: for DNM/Fastace BS-69RC---try Yamaha R1/R6 shock, $39 shipped

    My DNM/Fastace BS-69RC shock had an unannounced catastrophic failure, and I found one other post on this same issue, posted back in 2208: the shaft literally pulled out of its threads from the lower eye. Oil, pieces and parts were scatted from the jump way out to where I ran off the track.
    Only second real issue with this scoot, the other major issue being the "kickback/over-advanced timing/flawed flywheel pickup-blob" on the OGM Dirtmax YX160 engine, which I have not completely eradicated yet---apparently I have to replace both the stator and the flywheel, as I both shortened the "blob" AND retarded the pickup all I could already(??)

    ANYway, back to original post, the shock's shaft has completely pulled out of the lower eye, with no prior warning whatsoever---as I landed flat from a highspeed kicker.
    Yes, I nearly had one spectacular endo. But I am too much of a he-man. LoL
    I was sure that my engine had locked up. And JUST prior to the failure I thot it was pogo'ing on me more than usual, but I was hammering the shock very hard, and so chalked it up to overworking the shock's ability.
    Pieces were scattered around in the dirt, no one interested in selling me the missing pieces or even rebuilding it cheaply enough to risk the shock being worth it, so I began to look for alternatives.

    After a LOT of research I decided to try using a salvage 2006 Yamaha R1 shock, rather than spend $$$ on an Ohlins or $ on another China shock that might blow or try to kill me again.

    ********************
    The Facts:

    Have not been back to Swan/big bike track yet, but so far the action/valving is Cadillac, and the Yamaha OEM spring is fine. This is for kids and for me on my backyard mx track, but jic my old DNM spring is the same length.

    If the valving proves to be too light on the big bike track, I will first try over-filling the nitrogen by 15-20%, the old standby trick after increasing the spring. You indeed can even use air in there, will not cool as good as Nitrogen of course, and also dried/purified air is going to be contaminant-and-water-free, but if your bike happens to be a beater already, then hey, find your nearest 18-wheeler tire repair shop! LoL

    The R1 shock is supposed to be same length as this DNM/Fastace, but bike appears to sit a tad higher in rear, tho I have felt no negatives from it if it does, nor have I jacked with the preload any, so...
    Shock ride/action is superb, and of course build-quality as well, so all this for $39 to-the-door, can't be beaten.

    The KLX guys claim that the older, remote-reservoir version of this shock (2003 and older) is sometimes easier to mount/more versatile in fitment, but this 2004+ model with its horizontal reservoir fit perfectly after I trimmed a thin horizontal strip off the bottom edge of the rear fender.

    Shock offers superior action and adjustment, and the 2004+ shock is supposed to be an even better one than the years prior as far as adjustability and firmness, per the sportbike forums. Personally, I would buy whichever version I could find with the least amount of hours on it, as having to pay to rebuild the thing will not save you much money.

    The R6 shock will work too, but the R1 shock is firmer than the R6 version, with the 2004+ being the firmest of all the R1 models.

    Had to grind/cut the mounting eyes, many ways to Rome on this one, could have used Teflon washers and bronze bushings instead of mod'ding the OEM Yamaha ones, but cut down the Yamaha instead, means lower eye is running on the OEM Yamah needle bearing+bushing, with top eye having the OEM Yamaha rubber+steel bushing (the top eye moves almost nil, hence its lack of bearing, ntm the heavy-duty rubber/steel bushing does a great job absorbing vibration/shock/slight misalingment). FWIW my top eye-bracket on the frame measured 20mm ID, with the lower mount on the swingarm measuring19.5mm to 20mm ID, depending on where I measured it, (good ol' China). You have to allow space for whatever bushing/wear-item you intend to use to go between the shock eye's and the frame/mounts.

    Ensure that your bike's frame's shock mounts ALIGN...otherwise this puts a torque/side-load on the shock, *not* good. My top mount on the frame backbone was slightly askew, so I mounted the shock up top only, then used the shock as a pry-bar to tweak the mount until it aligned with the swingarm mount.

    As far as removing/replacing the bushings on the R1 shock, I used a press to remove the bushing and bearing, but was probly not necessary, I just did not want to risk messing up the shock. I could have used a regular walmart propane torch to heat the shock and tap the busing/bearing out with something like a ~24mm socket.
    This is how I reinstalled them, after freezing the bushing/bearing in my freezer first. Dirt easy to reinstall them.
    (Since the shock eyes are solid aluminum, they will heat up and enlarge IMMEDIATELY with heat, way way faster than the steel bushing/bearing will, giving you several seconds of a loose fit/time enough to tap them out.)
    Tools I used were: Deepfreeze to shrink the bushing/bearing, a piece of old steel 7/8" handlebar I had cut off, a brass hammer, a ~24mm deepwell socket, grease to aid reinstallation.
    You could also use a propane torch and a DIY bearing-puller tool, made from pipe and strong bolts/nuts/washers, see the web. But with someone tapping on the bearing while you apply heat, should be much faster and just as safe...
    CAVEAT: for newbies, it is crucial that you press only on the bearing where it is gripping, in this case the outer race of the bearing is what is "stuck", so you want a socket/slug/piece of pipe/etc that presses on this outer race, not on the inner race. Otherwise you will ruin the bearing.

    I doubt that I will ever remember to take/post pics, so I am not going to lie and say that I will, but so far it is the shiznit. Rides like a Cadillac and so far I cannot bottom it on our pitbike track, one jump being a flat landing of 4ft between rear wheel and ground, and I weigh right at 200lb. AND its chickenfeed cheap, requiring 2hrs of fitment is all, and it is rebuildable. And if you wanted to, it is easily resellable to a local KLX or R6 or FZR owner or SVT or older R1 owner....LoL (Lots of sportbike owners go to this shock as an upgrade.)

    Now go get back in the dirt and be sure to buy Rick Sieman's hilarious dirtbike stories book, "Monkey Butt".
    Last edited by txkawboy; 05-30-2014 at 10:15 AM. Reason: clarity

  2. #2
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    Awesome info right here! Going to try one on my buddies bike who's on a budget and having bad bad luck with (cheapo)Chinese shocks and sellers. Happen to take any pics yet?
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    Glad to help. This site is the shiznit for pitbike help.
    Nawp, no pics yet, but I am here to post results after getting to take it to Swan MX/big bike track, finally: Shock was so much better than that OEM shock it is unreal. Worth 4x the price even if my OEM shock was operable. China shock was darn good for a pitbike shock/China stuff, but tad spiky and not nearly as responsive to the clickers like this Jap shock, and not nearly the quality of action/tracking as the Jap shock..as good or better than my kid's KX65 even.
    Spring rate is doable but I need it a tad firmer. I weigh 200lb riding and am tall as well, so many of you probly do not fit that category. Could never *feel* it bottom, shock is that good, but spring was obviously a tad too soft for me.
    FWIW, here are the methods I tried for cutting down the shock eyes:
    1. a carbon cutting/grinding wheel in a Makita electric grinder=easy and fast but too large of a diameter to fit into the smaller space and too thick of a blade making it hard to judge the exact location of your cut.
    2. a small carbon wheel in an air grinder
    3. a tungsten cutting bit in an air grinder
    4. the next time I will just buy a 1" diameter, carbon+reinforced cutting wheel for my Dremel, one with a 1"-diameter. Only metal-working tool needed. This small-dia will allow me to fit the blade into the small space formed by the horizontal reservoir/shock body.
    5. actually, the next shock I do I will pay the local machine shop $10 to cut it FOR me! Including cutting the Yamaha bushings, as they were superior to the China stuff imho. The Yamaha needle bearing does not have to be cut, it is already the correct width.

    I also covered the shock with a piece of big-bike inner tube (we ride in lots of sand and this trick keeps the shaft/seals protected on these pitbikes).

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