Repair options for hairline crack

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Repair options for hairline crack

This is a discussion on Repair options for hairline crack within the Chinese/Import Minis - General Discussion forums, part of the General Talk category; Picked up a used SSR SR125 knowing it needed some TLC. The next morning I found a couple of drops of oil below the shift ...

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  1. #1
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    jamesfl's Avatar

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    Repair options for hairline crack

    Picked up a used SSR SR125 knowing it needed some TLC. The next morning I found a couple of drops of oil below the shift shaft. Upon inspection, it appeared the leak was coming from the shift shaft seal so I ordered some new oil seals from Tbolt.

    Put the bike on the stand today to install some new tires while waiting for the seal kit to arrive. Had the bike tilted backwards after removing the front wheel. By the time I got the tire on the rim I noticed a small puddle of oil. Traced the oil backwards and discovered what looks like a small hairline crack in the left crank case just forward of the rear engine mounting hole. Based on the location I assume it's probably a stress crack but don't really know what the cause was. Oil isn't pouring out but is seeping out slowly.

    Here are a few photos:




    I know the proper way to fix this would be to replace the case or perhaps have it TIG welded. Unfortunately, SSR cases (I believe it is a lifan 125) are not as easy to find as Honda cases and to be blantly honest, I don't feel like hunting for a case, pulling the motor, or trying to split the cases at this time as I have too many other projects that I need to finish.

    I have no plans to race this bike or do any jumping as it is just a play bike that will be used to tool around the neighborhood on and perhaps ride an occasional trail while my son works on his clutch skills. I am looking for cheap and quick fixes.

    I was thinking of perhaps trying Yamabond, JB Weld, or RTV silicone.

    What do you guys think would work best or what other suggestions do you have?
    Last edited by jamesfl; 05-29-2017 at 01:04 AM.

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    There is a product called "Seals-all" I think that's right, or close. I've had really good luck with that stuff. Get the area super clean, then put it on in a few thin layers, letting each dry a bit before the next layer. Then let it sit to harden up and fully cure. Good stuff for gas leaks too.

    I wouldn't try silicone at all.

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    Repair options for hairline crack

    I will have to see if the local auto shop has Seals-All.

    Thanks Kirrbby

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    It's been around forever and is easy to find...Ace Hardware.

    Let us know how it works...or if it doesn't.

    It's good stuff to have around. Good ol fashion stinky, flammable, glue.
    Last edited by kirrbby; 05-29-2017 at 05:01 PM.

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    So I finally got around to pulling the motor to make the repair yesterday. Upon closer inspection with a 10x loupe I could see that one of the former owners must have attempted to make the repair before. Not 100% but if I had to guess, it looks as if somebody tried putting solder on the cracks and sanded / polished it flush with the case. Once I get the area cleaned up i'm dremeling a small groove along the crack and using Seals All. Thank you for the suggestions Dirtbkr and kirrbby.

    After removing the engine I noticed that one of the upper mounting motor mounting brackets was cracked. Not sure if it was like that before or if it happened while we were removing the motor.


    I will try bringing the frame to a local Welder to see if he can weld it and reinforce the area.

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    dirtbkr188's Avatar
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    I'd say that a previous owner stop-drilled the hole to prevent the crack from spreading any further. A short-term solution to get you through the day but should have been properly repaired correctly ASAP.
    - dirtbkr188 -



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    It definitely looks like someone stop-drilled it based on the location of the hole, but it is just coincidence. Both sides have the same hole as well as the other SSR I have.

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    dirtbkr188's Avatar
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    Then possibly the hole is the cause of the crack...
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    Or SSR was having problems with broken motor mounts and decided to predrilled all their frames from the factory

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    Better photo of what the prior patch job looked like after I cleaned the area some.

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    I really hope he didn't stop drill with that 3/8" bit. I use very small bits for cracks. There is an SOP for stop drilling in the A&P books. As for the motor, not much you can do, other than patch with epoxy. If you want to weld it, you will need to disassemble, clean and vat the part. Cast aluminum is porous and will explode if you weld it.

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    "Cast aluminum is porous and will explode if you weld it."

    Tell that to a welder who makes his living welding motorcycle cases. (not me, but I have welded a few)

    Don

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    Repair options for hairline crack

    I have been using brake cleaner and Amazing Yellow to clean the area of oil, dirt, and grime before attempting to patch the leak. It there anything else I should be using before patching?
    Last edited by jamesfl; 06-16-2017 at 10:09 AM.

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    I do alot of fab on turbo parts for lax swap and weld plenty of cast parts. It takes a lot of cleaning to get it to a satisfactory surface. I have just as many problems as I do clean welds. Even then it's more work than it is worth to o that job. A case is 50 bucks or so. A proper weld on that case by an experienced and competent welder will cost much more. Any redneck with a square wave can patch it. But it will likely crack again and propagate further after you stress it with a weld. Have you considered soldering or brazing it? Not ideal but it will definitely seal it up. I've repaired diffs on our endurance cars in the pit with a stick, flux, and map gas torch. Last another half day or brutal temps and stress.

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    Popping isn't a result of porosity. Rather trapped dirt and oils and made for a crappy weld. I always have issues welding bungs in oil pans. Most always I will but a new pan to weld the bung to.

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