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Identify this swingarm if you can? I will attempt to post three photos.

This is a discussion on Identify this swingarm if you can? I will attempt to post three photos. within the CRF50 forums, part of the General Talk category; Hello, I purchased this bike on Friday the 13th. Kind of a wierd day. Got it home about 10:00pm. I have looked all over the ...

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    Identify this swingarm if you can? I will attempt to post three photos.

    Hello,

    I purchased this bike on Friday the 13th. Kind of a wierd day. Got it home about 10:00pm. I have looked all over the Internet trying to figure out who made this swingarm? I know the bike was built around 2003. It is a 2002 model xr 50 and the previous owner knew what he had and therefore would not sell it cheap. I had to drag him down his street just to get this bike in my truck.

    Here are three pictures..I know they are not that great. The swingarm is made out of square stock aluminum.

    TTXR AKA TT

    Attachment 91191Attachment 91192Attachment 91193
    Last edited by TTXR; 04-18-2012 at 10:31 PM.


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    crf50kid309's Avatar

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    I have seen that swing arm around a few times but never could find it anywhere. But I saw that bike in Craigslist !

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    I've never seen one like that before, looks super long.

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    Yes, you did see it on CL. However you cannot recall the asking price, Right?

    TTXR

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    That thing has some serious frame spacers.. you gonna take them out? looks strange. especially with the front fender mounted to the bottom of the top clamp. I think it would look cleaner without the spacers and everything mounted in the right spot

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minibikaa View Post
    That thing has some serious frame spacers.. you gonna take them out? looks strange. especially with the front fender mounted to the bottom of the top clamp. I think it would look cleaner without the spacers and everything mounted in the right spot
    ^^ What he said, I agree completely.. The "lift kit" would need to be the first thing to go!!
    Just curious, what did you pay for that??

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    Quote Originally Posted by traut811 View Post
    ^^ What he said, I agree completely.. The "lift kit" would need to be the first thing to go!!
    x3!

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    Minibikaa,

    You are right as well. It does have spacers under the fuel tank about 3" long and also under the seat same 3". Not sure why the builder used the spacers unless he or she was tall?> I will take a good look at other bikes here and make the final decision later on. I am just now trying to figure out just how much cash the owners laid out to get the bike to this point. In three weeks I should have the pink slip and I will then leave it like it is or lower it for a much cleaner look. Thanks for bringing this up. I appreciate it as I mainly deal in old school minibikes that do 80 mph..

    TTXR AKA TT

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    This is all I currently know about the bike. I hope this does not bore you. It's a description for the bidding place..

    PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE LISTING.

    THIS 2002 HONDA XR 50 FOR SALE HAS SO MANY UPGRADES THAT COST MEGABUCKS. I WILL TRY TO DESCRIBE THEM AS BEST I CAN. THE PRICES I AM QUOTING IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY. FIRST THE 110CC MOTOR WAS BUILT BY PAX RACING (PAXRACING.COM). THEY NO LONGER BUILD HONDA 50 ENGINES. NOW THEY HAVE SWITCHED TO KTM 50CC PEE WEE BIKES. THIS IS A RESULT OF ALL THE CHINA MADE PIT BIKES BEING IMPORTED TO THE UNITED STATES. RECENTY THE TOP END WAS TORN DOWN AND INSPECTED BY PAX RACING. A NEW HEAD GASKET WAS THE ONLY THING THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I AM NOT CERTAIN WHAT THE MOTOR HAS, EXCEPT WHAT I WAS TOLD BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER. WHO WAS NOT WILLING TO LET THE BIKE GO CHEAP BY ANY MEANS.

    THE MOTOR HAS A $414.95 110CC KIT. THE STROKER CRANKSHAFT ALONE COST $164.95. THE HEAD HAS LARGE STAINLESS STEEL VALVES, PORTING, HIGH COMPRESSION MILLING WORK. HEAVY DUTY SPRINGS, RACING CAM AND A HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP $60.95. THE AUTO CLUTCH WAS UPGRADED $73.95. IT HAS THE ORIGINAL THREE SPEED TRANSMISSION WHICH IS BEST SUITED FOR THE BIKE AND THE MOTOR. THE CARBURETOR, INTAKE MANIFOLD WERE BOTH UPGRADED AND TUNED TO THE MOTOR $209.95. MOST HONDA 50CC OR ABOVE DO NOT HAVE CRANKCASE BREATHERS OR VALVE COVER BREATHERS AS WELL. THIS MOTOR HAS BOTH $25.95. INTERNALY THERE IS NOT MUCH MORE THAT COULD BE DONE TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE. THE KICK STARTER IS FORGED ALUMINUM IS $94.98. THE SHIFTER IS A SPRING LOADED LONGER LEVER. THE HEADER HAS A BIG GUN TUNED EXHAUST $259.95.

    NOW TO THE CHASSIS. FIRST THE CHASSIS HAS NUMEROUS CNC MACHINED BILLET ALUMINUM PARTS. STARTING UP FRONT THE ITALIAN MADE FRONT FORKS ARE PAIOLI MECCANICA. THEY COST MORE THAN $1200.00. JUST FOR THE FORK TUBES. THE TRIPLE CROWN IS ALSO CNC MACHINED BILLET ALUMINUM AT $150.00 EACH. THE BILLET ALUMINUM HANDLEBARS CLAMPS ARE MADE BY PAX RACING. THE HIGH RISE HANDLE BARS HAVE A BILLET ALUMINUM THROTTLE $99.95. THE 10" FRONT WHEEL HAS A RED ANODIZED FINISH MADE IN ITALY $129.95. THE GRIMECA HYDRAULIC FRONT BRAKE LEVER $100.00. THE FRONT HUB IS EQUIPPED WITH A DISC BRAKE. A HYDRAULIC BRAIDED STEEL CABLE AND CALIPER $89.99. THE FRAME HAS A BILLET ALUMINUM HANEBRINK BRACE FROM THE HEADSET TO THE ENGINE MOUNT. THE SEAT IS COVERED WITH A FAST 50s COVER $42.95. THE REAR SHOCK IS MADE BY WORKS $329.95. THE SWINGARM IS A BILETT ALUMINUM HANEBRINK 4" LONGER THAN STOCK AT $341.05. IT IS QUITE BEEFY AND NEEDS NO INTRODUCTION. IT'S SICK. THE FOOTPEGS ARE ALSO BILLET ALUMINUM AND OVERSIZED FOR AN ADULT FAST 50s $99.95. THE REAR WHEEL IS ALSO 10" RED ANODIZED MADE IN ITALY $129.95 HAVING REMOVED THE FOOT PEDAL AND INSTALLING ANOTHER BILLET ALUMINUM REAR HAND BRAKE AND LONG CABLE ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE HANDLEBARS $142.45. ON THE REAR WHEEL IS A SPEED SPROCKET WITH 35 TEETH $54.95. THE CHAIN IS A GOLD SERIES AND HAS A FAST 50s CHAIN GUIDE $19.95. THE MOTOR SKID PLATE IS VERY BEEFY $69.95.

    AS FOR PERFORMANCE. THIS MOTORCYCLE HAS A GUARANTEE THAT IT WILL PUT A SMILE ON YOUR FACE. IT IS AS FAST AS MY HONDA 125 CR 2 STROKE FROM THE EARLY EIGHTIES.

    MOST OF THE PRICES I HAVE QUOTED ARE FROM THE FAST 50s WEBSITE. THEY ONLY ARE HERE TO GIVE YOU SOME IDEA WHAT KIND OF MONEY WAS SPENT ON THIS BIKE WHEN IT WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT.

    NOT YET MENTIONED ARE THE TIRES, OEM PARTS PURCHASED WHEN THE ORIGINAL MOTORCYCLE WAS PURCHASED. ALL I CAN DO IS TRY TO EXPLAIN. I HAVE ENCLOSED AS MANY PICTURES AS POSSIBLE. BID TO WIN AND GOOD LUCK. THERE IS NOT MUCH MORE TO SAY EXCEPT IT SHIPS BY U-SHIP AND YOU CAN GET A QUOTE FROM THEM ORIGINATING IN CALIFORNIA ZIPCODE 90230. PINK SLIP IN HAND. NO GREEN STICKER AT THIS TIME AS IT MAY GO OUT OF STATE. 48 STATES ONLY ON THIS ITEM. YOU MAY PICK THE BIKE UP AND PAY IN CASH WITHIN THREE DAYS OF THE AUCTION CLOSING. NO RESERVE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO CANCEL THIS AUCTION AS IT IS FOR SALE LOCALLY.
    Last edited by TTXR; 04-19-2012 at 01:09 PM.

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    ^^Oh man.. That is quite a description!
    You willing to say what you had to give for it? I was just curious.
    I've never seen a swingarm like that, but I wouldn't praise it for gold just yet either. Maybe it was a early concept or something from one of the big companies. It's weird they didn't bring the top "hoop" all the way to the rear axle mount plate for a more sound structure though.

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    Traut811,

    Thank you for the great feedback. I think I do understand what you are trying to tell me? If they brought the top hoop of the swingarm all the way back, sitting right on top of the axle it would or could have been a stronger unit? That is great information. Being new here I would NEVER join a Forum tauting a new bike I know little or nothing about. I have been around Forums a very long time. OMB.com has been great up until recently when the classifieds went away because of member's bashing other members, infighting and other nonsence that made me go away from there for awhile. So, true I just don't have any clue what the bike was worth when I found it. Most Forums do not give apraisels so I am not asking. It is done anyway. I am in to the bike as deep as I could be, with the hopes of having fun and doing what I do, which is part out over the Internet Baja Doodlebugs DB-30s. There are just not enough in CA now with the smog laws here. I smelled money when I found the bike. I know a little about making one or two dollars here and there on tangible items I invest in. I did take a fall two years ago on a mini bike at Ventura Speedway, CA on the dirt tack (flat track) and hurt my tailbone real bad and it still hurts when I sit for long periods of time. Please be aware I am a newcomer and I respect the elders here! If someone could explain the procedure of removing the lift kit step by step and the end results of doing this I am all ears. I have the ability. I just want to know what comes first and so on. Thank you all so very much for the warm welcome.. I appreciate it very much! Ride safe and have lot's of fun..

    TTXR AKA TT

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    The main part of the plastics (front tank shrouds all the way to the back fender, seat as well, are all attached together) are held on by 2 screws on the gas tank, 2 plastic push pins to connect the shrouds to the tank, and two bolts that connect the bottom of the seat to the frame. Start by taking these out. This should expose the frame pretty well, where you can see what's next to take off. Pull the tank off next. I have never messed with one of these lift kits, so I don't know for sure, but you should just be able to unbolt the brackets from the frame then, and reattach the plastics+seat to the frame using the 6 fasteners. I don't know what the hell they did with the front fender, but it needs to be mounted below the bottom tripple clamp. I doubt those forks will have mounting holes that line up with the ones in the CRF fender, so you may have to drill new ones. Looks like they may have had to chop the back half of the fender off or something to clear though :/

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    I took a good look at the bike tonight. I have one very big concern about removing the 3" spacers. Yes, everything would work out fine. The fuel tank could be lowered. Move a venting hose. The seat could be lowered. The lower triple clamp has four threaded holes to re-mount a new front fender. However, the header cannot be moved three inches lower. It is not going to go under the number plate if the entire structure is moved down three inches. So, I am going to put the conversion on hold until I get some more input on the project. I am not sure how the header is mounted to the exhaust tip? I think it is welded. I am not going to try to bend the header to fit the new structure. I will wait a few days to get more information. Someone butchered the front fender and mounted it to the incorrect triple clamp and they designed the header around the raised tank and seat. One other major concern is the clearance on the rear shock going through the lower part of the rear frame. Thanks in advance!

    TTXR AKA TT
    Last edited by TTXR; 04-19-2012 at 01:27 AM.

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    The rear shock will be fine. I have seen very few bikes with that pit king or whoever makes it, lift kit, and I've never seen an exhaust with the option of "lift kit bend". You'll be fine taking it off. These bikes weren't made to run those brackets, so putting everything back to normal won't cause any problems. The exhaust is only held on by the flange where it mounts to the head and the rear mount bolt, so by removing the rear mount bolt you will have some room to mess with it and move it up/down. Post a picture of the other side, or even better, with the plastics off to give us a better idea what is going on under there.

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    Tomorrow, I will remove the side plates on the fuel tank. Remove the seat and rear number plates. Disconnect the rear exhaust mount and see just what is going on there. Once I have removed those parts I will snap a few pictures and try to get them posted so we can determine what happens next. I am not afraid to do some serious research. The fuel tank is full to the very top. I just don't want to get a new header so I hope it can be positioned under the number plate once re-installed..??

    TTXR AKA TT

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    Here you go

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    Wow! Thank you! I do have a Hanebrink Support from the headset to the engine mount on the right side. It does not fit on the left side because of the curved intake manifold, at least not without spacers. That's great information.

    Got the change over finished late lastnight. I encountered a few problems along the way. As expected for a novice. Need to get some shorter handlebar bolts after I removed the front fender. I will pick those up today. Had to figure out by myself just how the ignition fit into the plastic holder and tie-strapped that all together. You guy's have been terriffic. Allowing me to jump right in and be accepted, as well as the great advice I have been given. Thank you again. It could be awhile until I post more pictures. Hang in there I will get it all done..

    TTXR AKA TT

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    ive seen them but couldnt remember who made them untill i read your post about the description and it says i right there lol
    maybe you just have never heard of Hanebrink, there are a mountain bike company before they got on the minibike band wagon
    they made some cool stuff and some stuff that just never quite worked well like there forks
    theres alot of companys that use to make minibike parts and they are no longer around

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    I just got back from the hardware store. I purchased four button head stainless steel fasteners for the muffler that was missing one. I needed to go a little longer to catch the threads. Got four more stainless steel handlebar mounting bolts, washers and lock nuts. The two rusty long bolts that held the front fender on are gone now. I have tried a few different solvents to remove the glue from under the front fork covers that was left when I removed the fork covers. The green sticker was in the wrong place and it needs to go on the lower left hand side fork. So, next after using laquer thinner I will try some acetone. I am not too concerned about the silver finish as they are old and needs to have that look anyways. So, I need a new front fender and I am pretty much done..lol I updated the description today. Thank you all very much the project is turning out great!

    TTXR AKA TT

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    Acetone may tarnish that finish. I know you said you aren't concerned, but be careful around those seals.
    I usually just use furnature polish, let it sit/soak into the glue and it usually comes off pretty easy. Or, you can use WD-40, same method, or "Goo Gone".

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