This will blow your minds. Just never seems to get easier when you modify motorcycles
This is a discussion on This will blow your minds. Just never seems to get easier when you modify motorcycles within the CRF50 forums, part of the General Talk category; 2002 Honda XR 50 with +4 swingarm dilemma.
This is will blow your minds. Today, I have a dilemma. I want to put my bike ...

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This will blow your minds. Just never seems to get easier when you modify motorcycles
2002 Honda XR 50 with +4 swingarm dilemma.
This is will blow your minds. Today, I have a dilemma. I want to put my bike back together after selling some parts off of it. Mainly, changing the Works Performance rear shock from 10 inches eye to eye (2 inches of shock travel) to 10 3/4 inches eye to eye (2 3/4 inches of shock travel). Sounds simple enough. Get nearly one more inch of shock travel with a + 4 swingarm. I now have 6+ inches of rear wheel travel, more travel than with only 10 inches eye to eye with 2 inches of shock travel, which I sold to another member here on Planet Minis.
Spent hours on the phone with the engineer from Works Performance for the last shock and the new proposed shock today. Great guy and he knows his mathematics. He can "talk the talk" and "walk the walk" with his 25+ years of experience in this industry.
He asked for some simple measurements which I discussed with him after measuring the bike.
1. Swingarm "pivot to axle" measurement "center to center." 14 1/8 inches.
2. Swingarm "pivot to top shock mount" measurement "center to center." 11 1/2 inches.
3. Swingarm "pivot to swingarm lower shock mount" measurement "center to center."
6 1/4 inches.
4. Inside diameter of the sub-frame where the shock passes through "upper V."
2 3/4 inches.
5. Inside diameter of the sub-frame where the shock passes through "lower V."
2 1/4 inches.
6. Outside diameter of the shock spring 2.4 inches or "larger" than the "lower V" at 2 1/4 inches.
The darn +4 swingarm with the shock spring nearly hits the right side of the "subframe V shaped opening" and needs to be, hammered, heated, cut away or just cut it off and/or redesign the darn thing so the shock spring can pass through the "sub-frame V" where it seems to be narrower than the spring and opening and welded it back together.
All this for 3/4 inch extended shock travel..
Man, it just don't get easier as you get older..
Comments welcome!
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/z...1b48731bcd.jpg"
Finally got onto Photobucket. Copied and pasted the picture of the new bike clutch side only..
TTXR Out~
Last edited by TTXR; 07-21-2012 at 11:31 PM.
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07-19-2012 07:48 PM
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its tight in between the subframe even with a fox float that is pretty slim
what frame are you running?
geometry is a bitch to figure out
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I am running the original 2002 Honda XR50 stock frame. Each Works Performance shock has the exact same shock body outer dimension for my application. Also, the inner spring dimensions are the same. Only the outer spring thickness differs as you go stiffer or weaker thus creating the clearence problem. The inside dimension of the two different springs (short & long) XR50 & XR70 springs are the same. The XR70 shock shaft is 3/4 of an inch longer eye to eye, thus giving about three more inches of rear wheel travel with the +4 swingarm. (one inch shock shaft extra lenght = three inches of rear wheel travel) One thought I had was to use a dremel tool on the right side tube after the longer spring and shock is complete and installed, if it hits the subframe I will mark it where it hits and grind off .0060 thousanths on the inside right frame tube between the two marked lines drawn showing the area where the spring either hits or rubs against the tube or would not pass through the subframe at all..
It seems to be trial and error with this damn Hanebrink +4 swingarm. It is slightly offset to the right alligning up with the upper shock mount.
Thanks for the question. It helps to explain it as I roll with the changes..
TTXR Out~~
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I have had to ues a hydralic jack in there and spread the 2 frame rails apart a little to get some shocks to fit. FastAce makes a shock 10 3/4 and it fit just barely fit. I have an Ohlins on another and had to spread the frame rails a little to make it fit.
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I need to know what type of jack would be able to fit in such a small spot? Or did you use two come-along jacks? The deeper I dig into this thing the more I am considering just spending the same amount of money and getting a stock Honda XR70. I found one this morning that was listed lastnight on CL for $475.00. From the one picture it looks immaculate. The Works shock alone cost $360.00 to custom build. I understand from speaking with a guy from Fast 50s the Elka shocks are $400-$600. I could rob all the good parts off the XR50, sell the remaining parts at no reserve and not have the headache. I am just too old to be airborne for long periods of time, those days were in the mid 80s.
TTXR Out~~
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get yourself a aftermarket frame +1" longer makes these 50s much better to ride for us big kids 
there way stronger and the shock should fit better too
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Ordered a cheap OEM Honda XR/CRF 50 shock and footpeg pins today for the XR50. Purchased a 2003 Honda XR70 lastnight all stock very clean with a skidplate for next to nothing. It has a brand new Green Sticker good until June 2014. Man, is the new bike slow...
Quite content today. Still looking for great deals on CL..
TTXR Out~~
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Do you have a bore kit on your xr50?
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Oh' yeah. It is a Pax Racing 110cc..
TTXR Out~~
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Swap the motors around then, the 70 motor will fit just the same in the 50 chassis
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Normally, one would think the difference between the 2002 Honda XR50 and the 2003 Honda XR70 would just plug and play. Not the case here. The stator's must be different part numbers. The 2002 has a plug. The 2003 has about three wires and connectors. Really, I want to keep the Pink Slip numbers matching. So, when the time comes I will get the 2003 XR70 up to par with the 2002 XR50. It only needs about $1000.00 in modifications... Ouch!
TTXR Out~~
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The OEM stator for both the XR50 and XR70 you have should be identical, with only two single plugs: A black/red tracer male plug, and a blue/white (or yellow) tracer female plug. apparently, both stators on your engines are aftermarket or Chinese. Post up a few pics of both left sides with the ignition covers removed...
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Yeah doesn't sound quite right, x2 on the pics
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I have had alot of trouble posting pics. Tried this morning again. For sure the 2003 XR70 is virgin untouched. Not one nut or bolt has ever had a wrench on it. No sign of a inner tube ever being replaced either. The 2002 Pax Racing is another story. I have no clue how that bike came from the factory. I appreciate everybody's opinion, however Chinese I would hope is never going to be in the equation..One has the plug and the other has the wires..It is very possible someone put the plug on the 2002 XR50.. I won't swap the motors..I wish it were just plug and play but it's not.
Just for kicks and giggles I just went to Google and looked at some XR50 and XR70 stator pictures. The XR70 had no large clear plugs and the XR50 had both male/female plugs and the clear plastic plug. Don't get me wrong. You guy's are the experts here and I am not questioning your know-how. I am a old school minibike guy, these bikes are new to me.. I have owned six Hondas.
2-1969/1970 Honda Mini Trail 50s
1983 Honda CR125
1993 Honda CT-70
2003 Honda XR70
2002 Honda XR50
2003 Honda XR70
As far as pictures: Load pic to computer. Click Go Advanced. Click add pictures, the file loads. Then click finished and nothing happens. I do have a photo bucket account, however I was not able to get in this morning.
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/z...1b48731bcd.jpg
TTXR Out~~
Last edited by TTXR; 07-25-2012 at 02:42 PM.
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Well, got around to removing the new bike from the pickup truck since last Friday night. Had a little help. Set the rear wheel down on the ground and lifted the front of the bike off the tailgate. Wanted to start the bike to raise the idle and run the carburetor dry. Turned on the petcock and started the bike and the fuel began to leak on the ground from the overflow hose..Oops! The thing was perfect when I tested it out for nearly 45 minutes Friday. Tried the bouncie-bouncie trick a few times trying to get the stuck float bowl to drop. After a few tries, the thing finally stopped dripping on the ground. So, the bouncing trick really does work.
,
TTXR Out~~
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