My CFR50/1XXCC 12" Motard Stretched Frame Up Build, Close to complete, Pics inside!
Currently we are building 3 mini Motards, two CRF50s, one KLX110 and making them somewhat street legal
Here is the one that is the closest to being finished, all run mint, but this one is the most extensive build so far, but all will wind up this caliber or most likely better. I've rode full size MX bikes for 15+ years and typically keep 8-12 bikes on hand for my self and friends to ride when we get the time. I own a dyno tuning facility for a living and dyno tune bikes, cars, trucks, sxs's, rock crawlers, bouncers, drag cars/bikes/quads, street cars, oval and fig 8 dirt and asphalt cars, scca/road course cars etc. But mainly high whp drag cars, 5 sec 1/8 and 7/8 sec 1/4 mile street cars.
Hopefully looking for advise on this build before it hits the rollers and gets tuned on e85. I doubt I'll be happy if it doesn't have the power to maintain a wheelie balance point in 4th or do rolling burn outs in 4th. Looking to make it cnc headed @ 14:1+ bored and stroked to 200cc+ with cases enlarged for larger sleeve/jug.
Havent disassembled to mic the piston yet of the current larger displacement engine but its 125-160cc currently. MX Wise I ride my 450 and 250 bikes on the track, 450 mainly on the trails and my two strokes just for fun. These mini motards will see street use only.
Frame and subframe has been completely braced and tig welded. Suspension is weighted and valved. 3 brake fluid cylinders, one for the hydro clutch conv. and 2 for front and rear wavey disc brakes. (a lot of parts are not shown)
Looking to ditch the current stretched swing arm and horizontal stock style rear sus. in fav for a traditional h style swing arm with an additional 1-3" of stretch. New re valved and sprung vertically mounted new shock with nitrogen res.
Currently suspension is super stiff and I hope it works well on the street. Quite the shocker vs my plush MX gold valved sys on my mx bikes.
All street legal conv will be hidden leds and bare min to make them somewhat legal to the uneducated. 50cc badges and engines will be 49cc stamped, so they will be "scooters"
Also looking to turn the carb around, so I can do a ram air and velocity stack, anyone done this? or something similar? Carb should work flipped around right?
Future plans, Haltech EFI, front/rear wheel speed sensors, multi stage traction control, auto fueling, flex fuel, tons of safety features, race pak digital dash, loads of electronic goodies we use in drag cars, All in hopes of turbo charging it as thats what we specialize in here. (dkgoodrich.com)
Any Tips or Suggestions, would be greatly appreciated, as I have a lot to learn from you guys on these things. I feel completely uneducated when it comes to these and I'm just applying what I know from MX and my work with race cars and bikes. I'm sure you guys may see a ton I'm missing here.
Just wanted to thank you guys for your help and interest, I'll continue to update if you guys like.
Worked on it some more today
Got most of the graphics put on it.
Now working with more of the subframe and rear fender. I really don't like how the aftermarket plastic fit compared to the oem plastics, however that is expected to a point. And overall, the aftermarket doesn't fit that bad, its just a noticeable difference vs the oem honda plastics.
My biggest complaint, is how the rear fender fits: It kicks way up and doesn't look right in my eyes. In this photo I am using a ratchet strap to pull the rear fender down and align it to make it look somewhat reasonable. I'll add heat to it if I have to to make it permanently how I want it. I am also going to cut the rear ~6" of the rear subframe that lays under the rear fender. To me, oem wise in this area, the rear subframe just looks un finished. I am going to cut it, and pie cut both sized or use my bender to remake it entirely. That way it sits lower, and will allow me to pull the rear fender lower. I am also going to connect the two tubes together. just two random open ended un connected to each other tubes under the fender just looks odd to me. Once all thats addressed, I'll build a wheelie drag plate and dry to disguise it the best I can. I just want to keep everything as clean as possible honestly.
In all reality, the amount of time I have invested in the frame and subframe mods with the tig welder, I would have been much better to go with a alum BBR frame. Which Id say if this thing keeps my interest long enough, thats the route ill taker ill jig my final frame and remake it out of alum. Then donate this frame to our CRF50/1xxcc motard build #2.
I'm a honda guy at heart, but I still feel complexed over if I should've built my mint newer DRZ110 instead of the CRF50, But I'll get to that build soon enough, its mostly stock with the general small mods people do to them along with a dyno tune. So it runs mint and is super reliable.
I need a little help from you guys. I have 3 decals that came with my decal kit I have no clue where they go. Any help with these? Its the 3 decals on the right. (Far left is number plate and Im not running a ugly square number plate lol). I took off the top protective layer to the yellow decal just to see what in the world it was, I couldn't even tell its color with the protective masking tape over it. The middle two decals look like air box decals, but I don't have a air box like my big bikes in front of the rear side number plates.
Here is the Pic
Please let me know what you guys think!
Keep in mind I'm new to these and could use your guys help and suggestions.
Next crf50 will be a White color scheme, still have a ton of plans for this one however, Would love some more gold goodies (like gold billet hubs) and engine upgrades.
Thanks for your interest !
Hate to tell ya this but you won't make huge power out of the China lump. Not reliable enough to work on the street either. As for the swingarm conversion. The A style has the right geometry to control the rear end better on street applications. The MX style works for more travel so not too necessary for the street. I wouldn't suggest welding on upper shock tab on the stock metal though as it is very thin there. If you wanna go fast, go get a Daytona 190. Hellish powerband and will just barely clear the front wheel with those 600mm forks. Also that FMF restrict or plate will need to go. Try considering the 4.1, TiForce, or Yosh RS3 exhausts. You will need a larder or shorter primary. I have two myself. These bikes are a ton of fun. Enjoy. Love to see the progress
Last edited by jason04r1; 04-04-2017 at 10:18 PM.
Middle stickers are OEM crf50 fork guard stickers. You do not have those on this bike.
The yellow stick on the right goes on the left side engine over like this:
The stick on the far left if for the front number plate which doesn't look like you have one yet.
Meant to say "sticker" not stick. Can't edit post.
Exactly what I needed to hear buddy!
Originally Posted by jason04r1
I would've thought the FMF 4.4 would have been better than the 4.1. It has been shortened however. It was free so I could care less about it.
I'll move it to my other 50 along with the Lifan/SSR 125 and I'll look into the Daytona 190. Any other power plants you'd recommend? I have no problem relocating the mounts if I had too. It certainly wouldn't be controllable with say my 08 rmz250 power plant lol but if the daytona has the old 4 stroke XR style reliability without the crazy maintainace we go thru with the new strung out 4 stroke power plants with their cut down piston skirts and titanium valves.
When you say don't weld on the upper shock tab, are you referring to the upper rear oem shock tab? I haven't yet but I do TIG weld everything and can weld two pop cans together, thin metal doesn't scare me too bad. dkgoodrich.com/fabrication.htm for some of my TIG fab items I built years back when I reg updated the fab page. I just want to do whats needed and if the upper mount doesn't need to be touched, thats just faster it'll be going.
I'll keep this style swing arm, even though I hate the way it looks but I am a function over form guy, it feels great just as it sits, esp how stiff it is on the street. Feels very well balanced spring rate wise front to back. This will see no off road use as I stated earlier.
Thank you so much for your input!
Ran into some other issues today, the small header is hitting my hydro clutch slave cylinder so the header needs to go anyways. I'd like to build my own big bore header and tapered conical muffler from scratch with mandrel bent 308 SS, fab'd power bomb, 02 bung for tuning/wideband. I just need to know how large I can can go without hurting power with too little back pressure. Everything will be load dyno tested using this SSR untouched as a base before any more changes or tuning.
I am also needing adapter fittings. My banjo fittings on my braided lines are too small for my new levers. I'll post a pic. I either need to buy or build adapters, or do 4an banjo smaller adapters at the front caliper and slave cylinder, run new 4an lines, then use larger 4an banjo fittings to match the levers.
I've also considered just trying to drill out the smaller banjo fittings and just hope they seal with the larger bolts that the levers use
Thanks everyone for their replies!
Please let me know if you have any comments or suggestions.
A friend sent me a similar link to show me the decal placement, not sure how I like the yellow blank sticker right there at the moment, plus undecided on engine now and chances are I will cut out that area to have easy access to the front sprocket, then add an alum brace over it like on my big bikes.
Originally Posted by jamesfl
Cant stand the number plate lol. its ugly to me, just a square. Prob just going to cut up the extra decals and use in other places.
Working on tank props and rear fender fitment, I hate how high the rear aftermarket fender is stuck up in the air, I'll melt it down level with the seat if need be, Plus I am going to completely revise the bars that go below the rear fender and add a fender brace/wheelie skid plate/integrated brake light under the fender in a clean way. Brake light will have a hydro activated switch, or a micro switch on the rear pedal.
Thanks for your input buddy!
Orig I really liked how clean the Alpinestar fork guards are, but I noticed today they are cracked, trying to locate another set.
Originally Posted by 50race
Wasn't really big on the graphics kit, felt like it was played out, but it matched my black and gold theme somewhat so thats the only reason I went that route.
Motard crf50 #2 will be a white theme.
Motard DRZ110 will be a wild bright color scheme bike most likely.
I just feel like I should've built the DRZ110 first, as I've had it the longest. All three were absolutely mint when I got them. 2 belonged to 8 year old girls and were purchased new from their parents. Even had training wheels. lol
Already did a super clean red/black/white/grey multilayer z50 mint build for my GF's son when he was younger (now I built him a nice CR85). Wish I never sold it. Designed the multilayer decal kit my self with my vinyl cutter. Bike was so clean.
I'll post up some pics of some of the bikes I've done from the ground up. I used to do 5-6 a year when business wasn't so hectic.
Last edited by dkGoodrichDotCom; 04-05-2017 at 03:49 AM.
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