V2-2 camshaft

[locojo25]

Has anyone ran both the -1 and -2 cam shaft? I was just curious if there is a major difference between the two? I am contemplating making the switch from the stock V2 cam but I am not sure if it is worth the money!
-Joe

[PlanetMinis.com]

[badmatt828]

I think you need a different piston to run the bigger cam. If you want one I have a brand new one I would sell. PM me if you are interested.

[locojo25]

I think you need a different piston to run the bigger cam. If you want one I have a brand new one I would sell. PM me if you are interested.

Does anyone know if this is true? I have never heard that before?

[geezer]

If you have a TB piston kit you should be ok. You can clay test it really to be sure.

[50WHIP]

The bike is easier to start and pulls harder from mid to top end , unless you are running bigger than a 143 I wouldn't use the bigger cam. I have tried the s20,-s25,and-s35 in my steup and when it was a 150 the s20 worked great, when it was a 177 i tried the s-25 and it was to wicked off the bottom so I went with the big v-2 one which is the same as the s-35 and now its pretty good everywhere bootm to top.

[locojo25]

well I have a 165 kit and 55mm crank and lightened flywheel, looking to get the most out of the setup!

[badmatt828]

The way it sound on the web site is that all the new kits should work with any of the TB cams. But i would still clay it to make sure! But then I clay all the motors I build.. I know on some of the older kits they had different pistons for the bigger cam.

[locojo25]

What is this "claying" your talking about? I have never used this process!

[storminnorman07]

What is this "claying" your talking about? I have never used this process!

claying is when you take some some clay smush it inside the valve notch of piston. then lightly oil the top of the clay and the valve. assemble the head and timing chain. then rotate the engine 1 full revolution. then remove chain and head. what you should see when the head is removed is an impression in the clay where the valve has contacted it. i like to cut in the center of the radius and remove half of the clay like seen in the picture below and remove half of the clay. generally rule of thumb you wanna see 0.080"~0.100" clearance. you can run tighter clearances but you better hope you have good good valve train to control the valves. cause if those valves get loose and float it will kiss the piston leaving you w/ an expense paper weight. on another note clay will not tell you what kind of over lap clearances you have. to get your over lap clearance you will have to install cam and rotate cam w/ head in your hands til you hit the overlap phase of cam then slide some feeler gauges in it to check clearances. incase you don't know what over lap is. its when both intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, see second picture for reference. on overlap clerances i like to see at least 0.040"

[locojo25]

Thanks I never knew that stuff I can totally use that info in the future!

[solidjohnny]

I ran the s35 style cam right off the bat on my 155. To me it runs great. If you're geared REALLY tall for top speed, you'll feel the sluggish low end. However, practical gearing for the dirt, you'll feel no lag or bog or weak spot. I can even lug it up a hillclimb at low rpms just fine.

You'll be perfectly fine running this cam with a stock trail bikes piston.

[JanssonK]

have ran both cams, on 155 and 178cc. Dont like the tbw 577 (s35) at all. No bottom end at al. It feal like the bike is bogging on low rpms and then flying away you will have to rev the bike like crazy, and with stock rockers the valves will float alot.

Takagawa rekomend the s35 for the street or motard.