Adjustable rev limiter... Again - Page 2

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Adjustable rev limiter... Again

This is a discussion on Adjustable rev limiter... Again within the KLX110, DRZ110, TTR90 forums, part of the General Talk category; Originally Posted by Special~K Its not that I'm trying to do a Barcia impression, or anything like that lol. Ever panic reved? Hear your valves ...

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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Special~K View Post
    Its not that I'm trying to do a Barcia impression, or anything like that lol. Ever panic reved? Hear your valves float? Its not healthy, and when you have a couple grand in an engine I like to know at even if I go over the bars reving it into the ground at least IT will be ok lol. Besides, its neat to have the only mini at the track that pops off like a 250f (actually the 184 sounds more like a 450). Mine is fully adjustable from 6k on upwards of 15k, and I have it dialed just right to where the power drops off and just before valve float. I like it personally.... def. A head turner
    It might just be me, but knowing myself why a motor has a rev limiter built into its ignition system, and what its purpose is, I completely understand why you would have one in a well built and tuned motor. What annoys the hell out of me, is that most of the people that keep asking this stupid question dont have a motor built to that spec, and have some strange delusion that is somehow "cool" to go riding around revving the bike until it hits said rev limiter.

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    fawk yeah man its awesome. I run geico graphics and alias gear and now have a sweet stache! I feel just like Barcia. :/ Non of us have to justify why we want mods done to a fukn minibike. Get off your high horse and contribute to the thread or fuck off. Your the first one in the thread to bring up the barcia reference which makes sense because he is THE ONLY RIDER IN THE ENTIRE UNIVERSE to ride his bike on the limiter.......

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    Special K - let me know, thanks.

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    Here is special-k's lxr thread: Special~K's Lxr Build...

    I was having some trouble making sense of how he wired his, but it is a completely different system. Special k- any thoughts on how I think it should be wired? Also anybody up for a call to Chp? I already called them twice about it, so they might be a little annoyed with me. Ask them if the limiter is compatible with a 12v ac power source.
    Thanks a lot guys!

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    I emailed lyle at chp and he had no clue about how to get it to work. Wasn't very helpful. I was thinking of buying the chp box and that ac to dc converter link I posted.

  6. #21
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    I talked to tech on the phone and they were very helpful, although I don't know who I spoke to. I would buy the box, but hold off on the converter until you talk to chp on the phone. good luck!

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    What about get the new daytona 4v ignition? it has a adjustable revlimiter stock.

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    I believe those use the crf style wiring/ignition which is why you can use the tokyomods stuff on those. KLX uses an ac current from what I have read and is totally different than the crf's/daytona platforms.

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    So I looked at what I have and I can get you guys a pretty good wiring diagram, but it will be to the Dynatek limiter, instead of the CHP one. I wnet with the dynatek instead because of its adjustment. The CHP had clicks at every 1k rpm (10k, 11k, 12k etc.) The Dynatek has a knob that turns without clicks, enabling you to adjust to say 12.3k or 12.5k. A little more tunable. Its around the same price, and I KNOW it works and how to wire it. The voltage regulator I have takes the AC current from the lighting coil and turns it into DC current which is required by the limiter to run. The limiter has a power wire, a ground wire, a pick up wire that comes from the pick up the stator (to count rotations) and a wire that gos to the kill switch/coil to cut the spark. My limiter thinks my engine is a two stroke, due to our ignitions systems. It didnt work right set up as a 4 stroke. Our ignitions fire every rotation like a 2 banger, but one spark of each rotation is wasted. The voltage regulator will have 4 wires. One power in, one ground, one power out (12v), and one trickle out to charge battery (which is not needed in this case being I dont run a battery).

    Same set up, set to limit at lower RPM than previous vid I posted (I have it set higher now, like in the first vid. Miss a shift and it sounds so awesome lol)

    Last edited by Special~K; 07-10-2012 at 10:16 AM.

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    so jdmp was completely correct about the converter

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmp View Post
    I believe those use the crf style wiring/ignition which is why you can use the tokyomods stuff on those. KLX uses an ac current from what I have read and is totally different than the crf's/daytona platforms.
    oh, missed this was in the klx section

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    Yep... Just checked my KLX. Only one wire from pick up, which would still be the same as it probably grounds under coil. Its still the pick up. One wore from either limiter will connect to it... the other to the kill switch, one ground, and one power. As for your converter, one of the 2 other wires coming from engine will be putting out power (which will need to go into converter, then to rev limiter)

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  14. #29
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    right which I believe is the dynatek that specialk has. Thanks for the help special k. May get this on order soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by SWrider View Post
    Thats it!

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmp View Post
    right which I believe is the dynatek that specialk has. Thanks for the help special k. May get this on order soon
    Bro, go for it. I promise you wont regret it, and your engine will thank you. Ill be around to help you with installation should you need. I dont care what others have to say about it... when you pull up on the line popping off like a 250f/450... heads will turn, not to mention the fact that your engine will be protected. Might even wanna start riding like Barcia

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