rebuilding bottom end of an 08 and when cases get put back together the transmission

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rebuilding bottom end of an 08 and when cases get put back together the transmission

This is a discussion on rebuilding bottom end of an 08 and when cases get put back together the transmission within the KLX110, DRZ110, TTR90 forums, part of the General Talk category; so I bought s 143 stroker kit. split the cases, installed all new bearings and seals. I had no issues. Got home from work to ...

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  1. #1
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    rebuilding bottom end of an 08 and when cases get put back together the transmission

    so I bought s 143 stroker kit. split the cases, installed all new bearings and seals. I had no issues. Got home from work to finish it up today and went to finish up the build and as I was putting the clutch assembly on I noticed the transmission felt super tight. I said F*** it, tore it back down, split the cases again, looked everything over, it looked fine. put the cases back together, it did the same thing again. I split them AGAIN, put them back together, and still the same thing. the crank and it's bearings feel great, it's just transmission. I can turn it over by hand, but it takes alot, and I mean alot of effort. (this is just by turning the clutch out put shaft. has anyone ever had this happen after replacing bearings, went through them all, everyone I replaced in the cases and they seemed great......could it just be this tight because it has yet to have any break in time on the bearings/seals? I used assembly lube on everything as I went to prevent dry start for when i go to fire it up the first time. At this point I'm just at a loss of explanation. im pretty sure its just the seals being fresh and tight on the out put drive shaft. the more i spin it the more it starts to loosen up. at this point since I know all bushings are there, and everything is in place, it turns over; even though it's tight, it sounds nice and smooth while doing so. I also checked all bearings to make sure they were put in perfectly flush, even used my bearing/seal driver kits for the whole install. if anyone else has he this issue let me know, I used a TB bottom end vearing/seal kit and tb crank, but the crank feels magnificent.
    Last edited by GSully23; 05-05-2017 at 09:37 AM.

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    well I finally figured out what the problem was, and I'm pretty disappointed. the 4 speed shift drum i ordered from tbolt must have been a lemon. after hours on hours trying to figure out why the bike wouldn't shift after assembling the cases, splitting the cases 4 DIFFERENT TIMES, and noticing the shift drum seemed off every single time I was going back to install then, I took measurements. it was off in more than one way, but here just a quick example. this is the Part that comes through to the NS switch. the other end was also .5mm larger than spec making it extremely hard to fit into the bearings.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSully23 View Post
    well I finally figured out what the problem was, and I'm pretty disappointed. the 4 speed shift drum i ordered from tbolt must have been a lemon. after hours on hours trying to figure out why the bike wouldn't shift after assembling the cases, splitting the cases 4 DIFFERENT TIMES, and noticing the shift drum seemed off every single time I was going back to install then, I took measurements. it was off in more than one way, but here just a quick example. this is the Part that comes through to the NS switch. the other end was also .5mm larger than spec making it extremely hard to fit into the bearings.
    Thank for sharing... Im going to be splitting my cases in the near future and your info is helpful

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    I'm not trying to put tbolt down In any which way. shit happens sometimes and things slip through the inspection process. since I was able to get it to fit into the bearing with a good bit of force, I took my small cylinder hone and honed out the NS switch side of the case an extra MM. since it is sealed with an o ring I could go much more than that. but im just letting you guys know be prepared. I've split more than a few cases, and for some reason this one is giving me more he'll than all others combined. i still havent been abke to get the cases sealed correctly, every part/thrust washer is there, tranny spins freely when apart.....but as soon as I join them shit goes down hill and it doesn't want to shift up or down. I'll update this post seeing as it's helping others out
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    Is it possible you have a thrust washer in the wrong place? Or one extra where it doesn't belong?

    Does the left side case sit flush in place when you install it, before tightening the screws down?
    - dirtbkr188 -



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    I got it worked out. I had all the thrust washers in place correctly each and everytime I split/reassembled the cases. To install I was using a dead blow hammer very gently, and everything was lining up good except for the shift drum before I honed out the Neutral safety switch/shift drum hole on the left case. the last time I assembled it I put it in 4th gear instead of neutral and it worked out fine. so I'm glad I'm past all that, although I'll be doing it again here soon when my new set of cases come in that I'm getting bored out, and I hope that goes a little smoother.
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    Last edited by GSully23; 05-08-2017 at 07:12 AM.

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    she's all good to go. did about 3 heat cycles, short run up the street and back, changed the oil and when the weather starts to clear I'll get back at it. I now need new front 65sx rim, and rear klx rims in black so I can true them up since mine are both tweaked. also need fresh rubbers, I can't believe the power this thing has.

    already ordered he friction plates and springs for the clutch because I could feel it slip a few times if I got on it hard. and a cradle mount and I'll be good to take it to the track with me on my next visit. pumped to whoop up on some of the slower riders on the big bike bikes. with fresh rubber I have confidence hitting most of the jumps at out big bike track, but not without a cradle!!!!!!
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    Glad to hear that you were able to get it sorted out and back together. Ya' gotta like it..
    - dirtbkr188 -



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    the stock vm26 came with a 190 main and a 22.5 pilot. bike started first kick without choke everytime, went to put the choke on and it was no bueno. fiddled with float height, i have it set well finally. i dropped to a 20, and than a 17.5 pilot with a 175 main before I could get it to fire halfway decent with the choke on. the bike still doesn't want to function properly with the choke, it will start and turn over but than i have to switch it off to keep the bike running at the right rpm. I will tell you this thing is fast as SH!T, it ended up throwing me on my ass earlier on the pavement while testing the jetting (after I put in a hd friction/spring clutch set) the thing is no joke. i have a new wheel balance/truer coming in tmmrw, new spoke torque wrench, and already have a fresh set of MH3's waiting to be installed. I'm just ready to get it out to the track since I've got the cradle installed.

    anyone else have problems with the choke running effectively on these vm26? bike runs flawless besides that, still need to do a plug chop test to confirm though. I could tell with the stock 22.5 pilot, and 190 main it was rich. still ran pretty decent, but was smoking some (it was good for the break in cycles anyways). I thought dropping to a 20 pilot and a 185 main would do it.....but nope. it showed similar symptoms as it does now but I'm going to try raising the needle a clip or 2( i have it set in the middle now). all I know is the thing rips, just want to make sure I'm not running it to lean....id rather run rich. the choke the only thing throwing me off?????
    Last edited by GSully23; 05-17-2017 at 10:05 PM.

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