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Which TAK cam is comparable to the cam that comes in the tb v2 kits?

756 views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  GSully23 
#1 ·
Hey guys, not trying to beat a dead horse here. I did some searching and found tons if threads on the tak/TB cams, but none that answered my question.

I bought a tb 143 v2 kit and stroker crank, I'm pretty happy with it but might try swapping out the cam. My question is which of the tak cams is close to the cam that comes in the v2 kits.

Just asking so I know if I want to go to an s15, or try an s25. I really would like to save myself the time and money of buying both.
 
#3 ·
The bike is really strictly track ridden. It rips really hard how it is. After I broke it in and took it to the track, with the gearing I had (14/35) I noticed it had a place between second and third gear where the ratios were to fall apart with the transmissions stock ratios (also have a 4th gear drum). So I went ahead and ordered a 39 tooth rear sprocket because I found myself riding in second most of the time but when shifting to third if I wasn't revved all the way up it would have to lug a little bit. I think my issue can be fixed with the gearing. I have yet to ride it on the track after replacing the rear with a 39 tooth, but I did take it around the yard and it feels much better. But If the gearing doesn't get me quite there I might try swapping the cam to help change the curve a little. I don't want to make to drastic of a change because I really enjoy the mid-top end the bike currently has.

I had ridden a tak close ratio tranny before and didn't quite like it, but I believe that's because the bike it was on wasn't geared quite right for the motor I think. It was a 194, had tons of power everywhere, but his gearing was much to low so it didn't have the speed I felt it should. But now I can understand why the close ratio tranny could be helpful as Long as the bike was properly geared for its power.
 
#4 ·
if you are racing it at the track you should run a very agressive cam then IMO. you could do an s35 but they need to be used with caution and some heavy springs else they'll eat your valve train. also those heavier springs and cam will reduce service intervals on the valves and seats. if you want the most out of the head, have some real portwork done to it...chad norman is the only guy i'd send my stuff to.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Yea I've read through some of his builds on here and it's blows my mind, but I'm sure the price isn't cheap. I don't race the bike.....because the scene is dead here for the most part. I just take my midsize with me to the track with my 450f to have fun on and turn some heads when I'm giving big bikes a run for there money on the intermediate track. After looking at the dyno charts I don't think I'd want to sacrifice anymore bottom end with an s35. I'm riding Sunday and I'll see what the gearing did for me, if not I might try an s20. I feel it has plenty of mid-top, I'm looking for a tad bit more low so I don't have to feather the clutch when I uoshift from second not completely wound out. Hopefully some gearing changes can GRT the effect I'm looking for because to be honest I'm pretty happy with the orientation of the power curve as of now. Also had to change my fork oil again, I have ktm 65 zokes (first gen) and they seemed rough. But I'm pretty sure I didn't get all the air out the first time. I did the compression fork a few nights ago and it feels 100x better.
 
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