Davmo's 1971 SL70 " Midlothian Racer" Build.

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Davmo's 1971 SL70 " Midlothian Racer" Build.

This is a discussion on Davmo's 1971 SL70 " Midlothian Racer" Build. within the Z50, CT70 and JDM Monkeybikes forums, part of the General Talk category; Have had some requests to show this bike's details, and decided on a retrospective build. Kind of a spoiler because you see the finished bike ...

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Thread: Davmo's 1971 SL70 " Midlothian Racer" Build.

  1. #1
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    Davmo's 1971 SL70 " Midlothian Racer" Build.

    Have had some requests to show this bike's details, and decided on a retrospective build. Kind of a spoiler because you see the finished bike in the beginning, but on the other hand, at least you won't follow this thread for months and not see the end. The first pictures are following a hose-down, and mud dauber nest removal. I saw this bike on CL, and thought the guy was kind of goofy. He didn't have a price, but said that someone should come out to Midlothian, Texas, and make a bid on this fine machine. He assured me when I asked that there was "more dirt than rust" in the pictures, and the bike was in fair shape. I would have to disagree on his assessment of the rust, but ended up buying it for two bills. Let me say that anyone thinking about bringing your wife on a buy like this one might want to think hard about it. On the way home, I had this sort of Jack and the Beanstock feeling, reassuring my wife that this rusty, abused, bent and broken POS was indeed worth the cow I traded for it. I remember saying: " I will just get it taken apart and work on it some time in the future." That was a total lie, once I started, it was hard to stop. The tank had badly repaired rust-through, and holes on the bottom. The seat pan was completely cracked in two, held together by the cover, with the bracket broken off. There was not a single drop of oil in the engine, and the head was blackened inside, a sign it had been run with no oil. The front fender was taco-ed up, and everything that wasn't covered with grease was rusted. So here was the challenge: use as many of the original parts in this build as possible, while going for a street tracker design. Well, here goes...
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  2. #2
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    So the clean up has been done, everything has been bead blasted and the cutting and fabbing has started. A bracket was made to hold the master cylinder for the rear brake. A cross member was also placed between the rear tubes that the bracket ties into. The bottom of the tank was pretty rotten, so a flat bottom tracker tank is just the ticket. The bottom was cut off with a sawzall with a bi-metal blade. New pieces were formed from 20 gauge cold-rolled steel, and TIG'ed together. There are #4AN fittings at the bottom of each side of the tank. The seat was cut shorter, as was the rear frame loop. The seat was also narrowed, and a 20ga piece of metal was welded along the top and bottom of the seat pan. The rear fairing was made from left-over pieces of the tank. The fender has been bobbed, and some of the bracing removed from underneath it. The frame has had just about every bracket, including the footpegs, removed. The footpegs were relocated to the rearset position, but using the original brackets. Even the original muffler bracket was removed and relocated lower down.
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    Thanks davmo...

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    More fabrication pics. The original handlebars were chopped, sleeved, and re-welded. Honda TB throttle and hand controls. The pipe was made from an aftermarket trumpet and a foot long section of 1 1/4 pipe from a Norton Commando. I later made a removable baffle for it. The original chain guard was straightened, reinforced with round rod along the front curved edge, and drilled. The original engine stator cover was too cracked to use, but I had another one with part of the guard cracked off, so I finished the job. The holes in the seat were cut, and then welded along the inner rim. Since everything was supposed to be light weight, and this bike can be titled, the license bracket needed to be minimal. Thin rod was used to do the job. The bracket is surprisingly rigid, and comes off in a couple minutes.
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  6. #5
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    Getting close to paint time. The hardest bracket to remove was the brake pedal mount. It was built into the motor mount. First pic shows the removed and filled bracket site. A lot of time was spent seam welding and grinding the frame. The second pic shows the relocated tank mount (the hole below is the original location,) The oil cooler brackets are in place, and the original coil mount was ground down, welded up and tapped out for the steering stabilizer mount. The area behind the head tube was cleaned out to make room for the oil vapor recovery tank. A bracket was welded on to hold the petcock. The tripletree clamp was widened 6mm by cutting it down the middle, and rewelded.
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    Last edited by davmo; 04-14-2012 at 12:58 PM.

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    So you cut the triple clamp and added 6mm, then welded both sides and ground it down? Wouldn't that leave the steer tube hole oblong? Sounds like a ton of work. Loving the progress pictures.
    Last edited by bronco bobby; 04-14-2012 at 06:14 PM.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronco bobby View Post
    So you cut the triple clamp and added 6mm, then welded both sides and ground it down? Wouldn't that leave the steer tube hole oblong? Sounds like a tone of work. Loving the progress pictures.
    You are correct. The hole had to be welded up and redrilled, but the amount of weld was not that much in the hole. The clamp has to be welded carefully, with two other tripletree clamps used to correctly space the fork tubes during the welding process (sorry, no pics of the welding.) I do a lot of metal finishing on my builds, so there is less bodywork to be done. The clamps were ground down pretty good, with the tab for the fork lock removed.

  9. #8
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    The bike is coming together at this point. The original CR80 knobbies are still on the bike in some of the pictures. The master cylinder and brake pedal are stock CR80. The sexy Mikuni 28mm flat slide. Look at the key placement on the motor mount block. The hole was already there. You have to take some of the rubber cover from the bottom of the switch, but it fits nicely with a little frame grinding. The original key mount was removed to get the oil cooler in place. It's a roller at his point. The side stand is made from a CRF70 brake pedal. In the last pic, the exhaust baffle has been built
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    Last edited by davmo; 04-14-2012 at 05:25 PM.

  10. #9
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    Last pics before paint. I tried to simplify the controls as much as possible. A single toggle kill switch at center. The lights are on a knob mounted in the space where the wires usually come into the light housing. The housing is upside down, and the hole that the manual calls the "useless hole" is suddenly useful to pass the wires through. The entire brake and wheel system were from a 2001 CR80, with slight modification. Pics of the aluminum oil vapor tank and oil cooler lines. The tank was made from some thick wall aluminum tube.
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    What a sweet build! Talant!
    Ride on the edge

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    You mention in the first couple pictures that the tank was rusted out, and that you used part of it to fab the rear end. Now In the pictures the tank looks slim and sound. Did you remove the lower portion but keep the top, or is it a different tank altogether?

  13. #12
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    Hey BB, the tank was the original one on all accounts. Here are the left over pieces from the bike, I kept most of them in a box. You can see some of the J-B Weld on one of the tank bottoms, and rust, and the missing front portions. What I did was had a friend hold the tank down on a table, while I used a long Sawzall blade to cut a masking tape line. The inner mounting tabs had to be remade and relocated higher up on the tank and frame.
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  14. #13
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    The pieces getting paint. Assembly is getting done.
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  15. #14
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    The rear hump hides a sealed battery. A view up under the tank. I like to use existing brackets if possible. The coil usually goes up under the frame tube beneath the tank. I ground down the mounts, welded and tapped the holes near the frame, and then made a triangular bracket out of aluminum to attach the steering stabilizer.
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  16. #15
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    I look at the original tank and the finished product, then at the left over pieces, and I cant seem to follow what you did. I know you say you cut apart with a sawzall but sure cant tell where. Looking great.
    Last edited by bronco bobby; 04-15-2012 at 08:44 AM.

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