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New guy here with a 1981 CT 70

This is a discussion on New guy here with a 1981 CT 70 within the Z50, CT70 and JDM Monkeybikes forums, part of the General Talk category; I checked the bulbs and wiring again. 1 ground wire came loose, so now I got one signal light to come on but it is ...

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Thread: New guy here with a 1981 CT 70

  1. #16
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    I checked the bulbs and wiring again. 1 ground wire came loose, so now I got one signal light to come on but it is not blinking.

    When I try the other signal only the dash light turns on. The dash light wont turn on when I signal Right (only in the left position).

    Do I need a new relay and rectifier?

    The horn is faintly making a little noise, Im going to try cleaning it up to see if that helps.
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  2. #17
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    Relays and rectifiers are common to go bad. So...probably. the relay might work if you get the rest of the bulbs working. You need to go thru the HL bucket and check EVERY connection. Make sure everything has good connection, and colors match...everything has a place.

    The signal and TL bulbs are not terribly hard to find. Call around and find a auto parts store that has 6v bulbs. Take your burned bulbs with you to match them up. The HL will not work until the bike is running.
    The horn has a trim screw on the back. Fiddle with that screw while you try the button.

  3. #18
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    Put a volt meter on the battery and make sure it charged up. Your headlight and tail light should work off battery power when the engine is off for safety reasons.
    tmas

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  5. #19
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    I cleaned every bullet connector in the headlight and rear end. Installed a new tail light, dash lights and inspected the turn signal bulbs...... all 4 look good.

    Now the front & back right turn signals both work. The left side is not working yet. My tail light works, no head light yet.

    I bought a bunch of bulbs and a new rectifier, but I have not tried it yet. The local Honda shop did not have a new relay.

    Just out of curiosity I opened the signal relay to have a look. It actually looks better than expected.


    https://youtu.be/iMjsSCZcWf4
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  6. #20
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    You're a asskicker, nice work. If you're relay is good, I think it should blink with both signals on. They should draw enough power to get it blinking. Have you checked your signal switch yet...maybe that needs cleaning too?
    Even on my 93, the HL or BL do not work unless the bike is running. Don't count them out until you try them with a running engine.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirrbby View Post
    Those exhausts have gone on the NLA list and the ones that are out there are expensive...3-400+
    Yours is typical...Rusted right in half at the asbestos guard bushing. Don't scrap it. It's worth having it repaired. Over on lilhonda we have started discussing some common repairs. https://lilhonda.com/webboard/showth...804&highlight=
    I go to Home Depot or Lowes... look in the black pipe section and pick out a close nipple that is approximately the correct length for your nackered section. Then counterbore or grind the inner diameter to fit over the rusted pipe and weld it all together. It's little crude but will be covered by the guard and only costs a couple bucks. The pipe is the closest to the correct size I've found readily available.

  8. #22
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    The front blinker wire was broken & the rear had the metal tab broke off where the plastic blinker bolts to the chrome arm.

    All my blinkers work now! I had to McGuyver the rear a little due to the lack of welding skills.

    https://youtu.be/VQJs8pH0Sn0

    Tomorrow Im going to set the timing and valve clearance. To complete my top end rebuild I will also install my new NOS Honda Exhaust & hopefully go for a ride!
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  9. #23
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    I tried adding more pics earlier but I dropped my phone & it keeps messing up.

    Heres what the rear looks like now. I think its ok for now. Im going to have it welded when I repair my old exhaust.

    The other day I scored a 1971 CT70H with a 4 speed manual transmission. So the repaired pipe has a new home in the near future!
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  10. #24
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    Gotta love the addiction. Not even done with #1 and you pick up two more projects! Must admit I'm scouringncraigslist for the next and all my parts for #1 aren't here yet!

  11. #25
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    Some stuff you may already know...
    Once she's running, you'll want to do a oil change pretty quick, Then 2 or 3 more pretty quick. Flush out the stardust from break in, old oil and dirt etc. Hopefully your clutch is good, I'd give it a 50/50 chance. Whether it's good or not, you'll want to get in there and clean the oil spinner and screen. Oil pump. Cam chain and rollers, oil pump drive sprocket. You can test the rectifier to make sure no AC is getting past it to cook your new battery.

  12. #26
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    The new pipe is on, adding fresh oil, then on to setting timing, valves, and cam sprocket.

    What needs to happen first?
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  13. #27
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    Get the cam timing (sprocket) on correctly. Then I'd set that valve lash, then set the points to the high side of the specs... .015-.016 inches.

  14. #28
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    Ok Im going to get started now. My cam is an aftermarket bearing race type from dratv.com.

    Here are their reccomendations for the valve clearance:
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  15. #29
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    Timing and valves are now set. I cleaned up the fuel line routing and buttoned up everything else.

    Adjusting the timing was much easier than I thought. Tomorrow will be the day I fire it up.

    The horn is the only thing I could not get to work. Im going to see if I can find a new one.
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  16. #30
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    Lookin good man!

    Now fire her up.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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