New guy here with a 1981 CT 70 - Page 4

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New guy here with a 1981 CT 70

This is a discussion on New guy here with a 1981 CT 70 within the Z50, CT70 and JDM Monkeybikes forums, part of the General Talk category; No I did not choose the colors, the aftermarket pig tail came that way. That is not my problem. Now I cleaned the contacts inside ...

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Thread: New guy here with a 1981 CT 70

  1. #46
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    No I did not choose the colors, the aftermarket pig tail came that way. That is not my problem.

    Now I cleaned the contacts inside the on/off switch, installed another new plug, cleaned the inside of the flywheel and still no spark.
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  2. #47
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    Well if it's causing your no spark issue, it IS your problem.one way or the other, the 2 black/whites from your wire harness...the original BK/W wires that you show in a pic, HAVE to be connected. Otherwise, your stator is not connected to your ignition coil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAHAWKS View Post
    I had to repair the factory harness, only at the end. Positive/Negative to the battery & the other 2 are still the same as the original.

    The new battery comes with the male connection wired with a new 10 amp fuse.


    The rear brake wire comes in just next to the ignition coil. I may have got those 2 wires switched around.
    Pic #5 in this post.

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  5. #49
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    Im not sure how else to tell you. All 4 of those wires are matched up as they should be.

    I had to remove all 4 pins from the aftetmarket female clip to line up with the brand new male pig tail.

    The aftermarket configuration was not matching the positive and negative terminals from the Batterys pig tail.

    One by one I re installed each clip to match the new pigtail (supplied with the battery).

    I crimped all 4 wires in place twice so there is no loose connection. If the aftermarket wires were the same color I would not be explaining so much.

    *** The 6 volt positive and negative are correct because my headlights and blinkers work perfect.***

    The other 2 wires are crimped in very good. Even if they were not in the plastic housing the same way as the OEM harness (not that this is the case) they are still crimped in tight and make a good connection.

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    Lol. What I needed to hear was, "yes, it's wired correctly. The blacks run thru the jumper...". I don't care if it's wired the same way it used to be, cause maybe it used to be wrong.

    Have you checked the spark plug cap to SP wire connection yet?

    Only other things I can think of is if the coil is not grounded to the frame. Or maybe a wire in the stator is touching metal...grounding out.

    How are you testing for spark?
    Key on.
    Kill switch set to run.
    Spark plug laying against the head.
    You can check for power with a tester, using the black from stator and touching the other lead to the engine case. Then kick over the engine. Test for AC I think.

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    https://youtu.be/fTA710pEa28


    The bike runs now but its noisy. I swapped the head out. This new one looks different than my original.

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    The stock head did not feel right, I think the valves locked up or something.

    So the new head appears to have slightly larger cam sprocket & its missing an oil pressure plate.
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    Why does my engine rattle so much? I adjusted the valves to .003 inches.

    You can see my video a few posts earlier.

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    Holy hell that sounds terrible. I don't know what it is. Sounds lit the piston hitting a valve or the head. If the piston isn't compatible with the head, that could be what it is.
    The E22 head is familiar, but I'm not sure what it is. I'd research the head, then look at which piston you bought, make sure the piston is right for your motor, and that it works with that E22 head.

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    When the "T" mark on the flywheel is lined up with the notch in the engine case at the 12 o'clock position, is the "O" on the cam sprocket lined up with the notch in the head at the (approx) 9 o'clock position? In the second and fourth pics just above, you have the "O" mark 180° opposite the notch in the head.
    At TDC with both valves fully closed, the "O" is supposed to be in the 9 o'clock position
    - dirtbkr188 -



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    Quote Originally Posted by kirrbby View Post
    Holy hell that sounds terrible. I don't know what it is. Sounds lit the piston hitting a valve or the head. If the piston isn't compatible with the head, that could be what it is.
    The E22 head is familiar, but I'm not sure what it is. I'd research the head, then look at which piston you bought, make sure the piston is right for your motor, and that it works with that E22 head.
    It even sounds bad when you're kicking it over. I would check the piston to see if anything hit the head or valves. Maybe your valves weren't tight? Maybe they hit the piston and bent?

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    Im going to pull the head off and start over. The oem head I replaced did infact lock up from the valves hitting each other.

    I used this E22 head because it was supposed to be fairly new and I was anxious to ride my bike.

    This time I will take my time and set everything up a little more carefully.

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    I pulled the head apart and installed my new Wide Heavy Duty Valve Springs. While the head was off I set the valve clearance, its much easier to do this way.

    The bike starts on 1st kick most of the time. I took it for a ride around the block, it runs, shifts, stops as it should.

    The noise is still there rattling around. I think the rod bearing is bad, and thats where the problem is.

    When I first pulled the head off the rings were rusted to the cylinder. I hit the piston pretty good to knock it out....

    https://youtu.be/NbaAxYLcYak

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    Someone at work told me it sounds like the cam chain tensioner needs to be adjusted.

    Has anyone heard a noise like this before? Im going to check the chain tensioner later when I get home.

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